Leah Chase's Butter Cake

Leah Chase's Butter Cake: A Culinary Legacy

The aroma of freshly baked cake often evokes powerful memories, transporting us back to cherished moments and loved ones. For me, the scent of Leah Chase's Butter Cake is inextricably linked to a pivotal culinary experience in New Orleans. It wasn't just the taste of this exquisite cake, but the context in which I encountered it – a meeting with the legendary Leah Chase herself, in the heart of her renowned restaurant, Dooky Chase's.

Three years ago, a dear friend, Judy, a seasoned food writer for the Times-Picayune, orchestrated a culinary pilgrimage for me. She knew my time in New Orleans was limited, and she insisted I experience the magic of Dooky Chase's. The fried chicken, she declared, was the best in the city – a claim that, after tasting it, I wholeheartedly agreed with. But the culinary bounty extended far beyond the chicken: gumbo, stewed okra, red beans and rice, collard greens – each dish a testament to the rich traditions of Creole cuisine. And then, of course, there was the peach cobbler, a sweet counterpoint to the savory dishes. The buffet was a feast for the senses, a vibrant reflection of New Orleans' soulful culinary heritage. But it was more than just the food; it was the atmosphere, the warmth, the legacy of a woman who embodied the spirit of New Orleans hospitality.

Mrs. Chase, as she was affectionately known, possessed a quiet strength and grace. Her connection to the city, to its history and its people, was palpable. She and her late husband, the jazz musician Dooky Chase, had built an empire, not just a restaurant, but a cultural institution. Their establishment, opened by Dooky's parents in 1941, became a gathering place for community leaders, civil rights activists, and artists. It was a place where stories were shared, and connections were forged. The passing of Dooky Chase just a few years ago left a void in the New Orleans culinary landscape, but his legacy, carried on by Leah and her family, continues to resonate.

It is fitting that a cake named in her honor, a simple yet elegant dessert, embodies both the warmth and refinement of the woman herself. The buttery richness, the delicate sweetness, the perfect texture – each element works in harmony to create a truly unforgettable experience. It's a recipe that deserves to be shared, not just for its deliciousness but for the story it represents. It's a reminder of the importance of culinary traditions and the power of shared meals to connect us across generations and cultures. The cake itself is a tribute to the enduring spirit of Leah Chase, a culinary icon who left an indelible mark on New Orleans and the world of food. Her legacy extends far beyond the walls of her restaurant, now deeply woven into the fabric of New Orleans culture and the hearts of those who knew her.

Beyond the historical significance, the cake itself is a masterpiece. The recipe, requiring precise technique and high-quality ingredients, reflects the care and attention to detail that Mrs. Chase brought to all of her culinary creations. It’s a cake that demands respect, a testament to the artistry of baking, a recipe worthy of its namesake. The simple elegance of the recipe perfectly encapsulates the essence of New Orleans hospitality: unpretentious, generous, and unforgettable. It’s a reminder that the most profound culinary experiences aren’t always about complexity but about authenticity, passion, and the enduring power of shared meals.

Leah Chase's Butter Cake isn't just a recipe; it’s a story, a legacy, and a reminder of the indelible impact one person can have on a community and the world of food. It’s a cake I will always treasure, not only for its delectable taste, but for the memories it evokes, the history it embodies, and the extraordinary woman who inspired it.

Step-by-step

• Place a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 350 degrees.
• Grease a 10-inch tube pan with vegetable shortening or soft butter, and dust with flour. Shake out the excess flour and set the pan aside. (If the eggs are straight from the refrigerator, place them in a large bowl of warm water to come to room temperature).
• Cut the sticks of butter into 6 to 8 tablespoons each, and place all the butter in the bowl of an electric mixer. Beat on medium-high until the butter is in one mass, 1 minute. Stop the mixer and add the powdered sugar. Drape a kitchen towel over the top of the mixer so you don't get showered with sugar. Start on low speed and blend the sugar to incorporate. Then increase the speed to medium and let the mixture beat until creamy, 2 to 3 minutes.
• Crack one egg at a time and add to the butter mixture, beating on medium-low until blended. Add another egg, beating again, and stop the machine after every two eggs are added, and scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula. Repeat with the remaining eggs.
• With the machine off, add the flour to the mixture. Add salt, if desired. Mix on low speed to incorporate the flour, 30 seconds. Add the vanilla, and on low speed blend 15 seconds more.
• Scrape down the sides of the bowl with the spatula, and turn the batter into the prepared pan, smoothing the top. Place the pan in the oven.
• Bake until the cake is well browned and the center springs back to the touch, 58 to 62 minutes. A toothpick inserted should come out clean. Remove the cake from the oven, and let it cool in the pan for 20 minutes. Then run a knife around the edges, shake the pan gently to loosen the cake, and turn it out once, then again onto a rack to cool right-side up. Let cool 30 minutes to 1 hour before slicing.