San Francisco Crab "Meatball" Chowder

A San Francisco Surprise: Crab "Meatball" Chowder

As a busy professional, time in the kitchen is a precious commodity. I’m always on the lookout for recipes that are both impressive and efficient. This San Francisco Crab “Meatball” Chowder fits the bill perfectly. It’s a hearty, flavorful chowder that’s surprisingly easy to make, and the “meatballs,” made from succulent crabmeat, are a delightful twist that always impresses my guests.

The inspiration for this recipe came from a vintage San Francisco cookbook, a treasure trove of culinary history. The original recipe called for “force meatballs,” a clever disguise for crabmeat that adds a fun element of surprise. I’ve adapted the recipe to include the rich flavors of cioppino, that iconic San Francisco seafood stew, creating a deeply satisfying and elegant dish. The first time I made it for my family, I simply called it “meatball chowder.” The reaction was priceless; my son’s “Wow, they taste like crab cakes!” perfectly captured the delighted confusion on their faces.

The magic lies in the simplicity of the “meatballs.” The crabmeat is gently combined with a few simple ingredients – eggs, milk, cracker crumbs, and seasonings – then rolled into small, perfectly formed balls. These are quickly pan-fried until golden brown, creating a convincing meatball illusion. Meanwhile, the chowder itself simmers gently, allowing the flavors of garlic, onions, bell peppers, and tomatoes to meld beautifully with the rich crab stock and tender potatoes. The addition of the actual crab meat adds texture and a boost of flavor. This is not just a chowder; it’s a culinary story.

This chowder is perfect for a casual weeknight dinner or a more sophisticated gathering. The beautiful presentation, with the golden-brown “meatballs” nestled in the vibrant chowder, makes it a standout dish for any occasion. And let’s not forget the ease of preparation! The entire process, from preparing the “meatballs” to simmering the chowder, can be completed in under an hour.

Beyond the deliciousness, this recipe represents more than just a meal; it's a connection to culinary history. The original recipe from Joe Tilden's cookbook carries a weight of tradition, a testament to the ingenuity of Bay Area cooks. The simple instruction “Serve in any fish chowder or soup” hints at endless possibilities, inspiring me to create this unique and flavorful rendition.

Tips for Success:

• Don't rush the crab preparation. Taking the time to properly clean and crack the crab legs is well worth the effort. The added flavor it provides is immense.
• Adjust the spice level to your liking. The amount of hot sauce in the meatballs is customizable; add more for a spicier kick.
• Make ahead for convenience. You can prepare the meatballs and the chowder base ahead of time and reheat when ready to serve. This is perfect for busy weeknights.
• Consider variations. Experiment with different types of crab or add other seafood to the chowder for a personalized twist.

This San Francisco Crab “Meatball” Chowder is more than just a recipe; it's a culinary adventure, a journey into the past that culminates in a delightful and unexpected surprise on the palate. It's a dish that speaks of creativity, resourcefulness, and the sheer joy of creating something truly special in the kitchen, regardless of your level of culinary experience. Give it a try, and prepare to be amazed!

Step-by-step

• To make the meatballs, place the crabmeat in a mixing bowl and shred with a fork. Add the eggs, milk, dry mustard, pepper, and cracker crumbs. Mix well. Season with salt and hot sauce to taste. Moisten your hands and roll the mixture into balls that are about 3/4- to 1-inch in diameter (about 1/2 ounce each); keep your hands slightly wet so the balls are very smooth. Place on a cookie sheet. You should have about 36 balls. Cover and refrigerate while you prepare the chowder.
• To cook the crabs, fill a 6- to 8-quart pot with 1/2-inch ocean water or tap water with enough salt added to make it very salty. Bring to a boil, place the crab(s) top shell (carapace) down in the pot, cover, and steam for about 12 minutes for smaller crabs, about 20 minutes for a Dungeness crab. Remove and allow to cool at room temperature.
• When cool enough to handle, remove the crab legs, break into sections, and neatly crack the large pieces. Pick the meat from the small pieces and reserve. Remove the apron (tail flap) from the bottom of each crab and discard. Remove the top shell, scoop the green stuff (tomalley) out of it, and reserve; discard the shell. Remove the gills from the body and discard. Cut the body into quarters and trim away any extraneous shell or cartilage. Refrigerate all the crabmeat, crab pieces, and tomalley until ready to use.
• Heat a 4- to 6-quart heavy pot over low heat and add the bacon. Once it has rendered a few tablespoons of fat, increase the heat to medium and cook until the bacon is a crisp golden brown. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the fat, leaving the bacon in the pot.
• Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Add the butter, onion, bell pepper, bay leaves, and the Old Bay Seasoning and cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, for about 10 minutes, until the onion and pepper are softened but not browned.
• Add the potatoes and crab stock, turn up the heat, and bring to a boil. Cover the pot and cook the potatoes vigorously for about 10 minutes, until they are soft on the outside but still firm in the center. If the broth hasn’t thickened lightly, smash a few potatoes against the side of the pot and cook a minute or two longer to release their starch.
• Lower the heat to medium, add the tomatoes, and bring back to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the cracked crab legs, picked leg meat, tomalley, and body sections. If you are not serving the chowder within the hour, let it cool a bit, then refrigerate; cover the chowder after it has chilled completely. Otherwise, let it sit at room temperature for up to an hour, allowing the flavors to meld.
• When ready to serve, reheat the chowder over low heat. While it is reheating, place an 8- or 9-inch skillet or sauté pan over medium-high heat, add about 1/2 inch vegetable oil, and heat to about 350°F. Carefully but quickly add 8 to 10 meatballs to the hot oil and pan-fry, turning them as needed, until they are a rich brown color on all sides, so they resemble real meatballs. Using a slotted spoon, remove the meatballs, letting the excess oil drain back into the pan, then place on paper towels to drain. Repeat with the remaining meatballs.
• Ladle the chowder into shallow bowls or large soup plates, making sure that the crab, onions, peppers, tomatoes, and potatoes are evenly divided. Place 4 meatballs in each bowl and sprinkle generously with the chopped parsley. Serve the remaining meatballs on a plate or platter; your guests can add more, if desired.