Neapolitan Ricotta and Wheatberry Pie

A Taste of Home: My Neapolitan Ricotta and Wheatberry Pie Tradition

The aroma of baking fills my kitchen, a familiar scent that transports me back to childhood Easters. The rhythmic thump of the rolling pin on the countertop, the gentle crackle of the pie crust as it bakes – these are the sounds of family, tradition, and the unwavering love poured into each slice of our Neapolitan Ricotta and Wheatberry Pie, or pastiera napoletana.

This recipe isn’t just a collection of ingredients; it’s a living legacy passed down through generations. My mother, a strong Calabrian woman who immigrated to Brooklyn, learned this recipe from her sister-in-law shortly after marrying my father in 1941. Imagine the bustling Brooklyn kitchen, the warmth of family gathered around a table, sharing stories and laughter as the pie took shape. That’s where this recipe truly began. The subtle sweetness of the ricotta, the delightful chewiness of the wheat berries, the delicate cinnamon notes – each bite tells a story.

Over the years, making this pie has become a cherished ritual, a treasured bond between my mother, my daughter, and myself. Every Easter, we gather in the kitchen, a symphony of flour dust and happy chatter, recreating a piece of our family's history. The process itself is a meditation, a way to connect with the women who came before us and to leave our mark for future generations. It’s a reminder that the most important ingredients in any recipe are the moments we share while creating it.

The recipe is surprisingly simple, a testament to the fact that sometimes the most beautiful things are born from simplicity. The magic lies not in exotic ingredients but in the care and attention we put into each step. From carefully soaking the wheat berries to gently folding in the creamy ricotta, each action is imbued with love and a deep sense of reverence for this family heirloom. This pie is a delicious symbol of our roots, a comforting reminder of our heritage, and a timeless expression of affection.

This pie, more than just a dessert, is a conversation starter, a trigger for memories, and a symbol of familial connection. It’s a story told through the taste buds, a tradition that will hopefully continue to bring joy and warmth to our family for years to come. Every slice is a piece of our family history, a delicious reminder of where we came from, and a promise of the future.

The process of preparing this pie is as satisfying as the result. The meticulous steps, the careful layering of flavors, the anticipation of the first bite – it’s a holistic experience that transcends the simple act of baking. It's about the journey, the shared experiences, and the connections made in the heart of the kitchen. The end result is undoubtedly delicious, but the real reward is in the time spent together, the laughter shared, and the memories created along the way. It's a family tradition, a culinary legacy, and a taste of home that we are proud to share.

So, gather your loved ones, roll up your sleeves, and embark on this culinary adventure. Let the aroma of baking fill your home, and allow the taste of this Neapolitan Ricotta and Wheatberry pie to take you on a journey through time, love, and family. And remember, the most important ingredient isn’t just found in the recipe, it's found in the love and the memories created while making it. Happy baking!

Step-by-step

• Cover wheat berries with cold water in a bowl, then chill, covered, 8 to 12 hours. Drain in a sieve and rinse.
• Make pastry while wheat berries soak: Sift together 2 1/4 cups flour, 1/4 cup sugar, baking powder, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Blend in 1 1/4 sticks butter (1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons) with a pastry blender or your fingertips until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add 2 whole eggs and stir with a fork until a crumbly dough forms.
• Turn dough out onto a work surface. Divide in half and with the heel of your hand smear each piece of dough twice with a forward motion to help distribute fat. Gather dough and form into 2 disks. Chill, wrapped in plastic wrap, until firm, at least 1 hour.
• Make filling: Bring soaked wheat berries and cold water to a boil in a 2-quart saucepan, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, until wheat berries are tender, about 1 1/2 hours. Add remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and simmer 5 minutes more. Drain in sieve and rinse under cold water until cool. Drain well.
• Whisk together 2 yolks and 1/4 cup sugar, then whisk in cornstarch and remaining 3 tablespoons flour until smooth. Bring milk to a boil in a small heavy saucepan, then gradually add hot milk to yolks, whisking.
• Pour custard into saucepan and bring to a boil over moderately low heat, whisking constantly (custard will get very thick), then boil, whisking, 1 minute. Remove from heat and whisk in vanilla and remaining 1/4 stick (2 tablespoons) butter. Transfer pastry cream to a bowl and chill, its surface covered with wax paper.
• Beat together ricotta and remaining 1/3 cup sugar with an electric mixer at medium speed until sugar is dissolved, about 3 minutes. Beat in flower water, pastry cream, and remaining 2 yolks, then stir in zest, citron, cinnamon, and wheat berries.
• Assemble and bake pie: Preheat oven to 350°F. Roll out half of dough into a 13-inch round on a well-floured surface with a floured rolling pin. Fit dough into a 9-inch (24-centimeter) springform pan (dough is very tender and will crack). Press dough against side of pan and patch any cracks. Chill.
• Lightly beat remaining egg. Roll out remaining dough into a 10-inch round and transfer to a baking sheet. Brush dough with some of egg, then cut into 10 (1-inch) strips with fluted pastry wheel.
• Spoon filling into chilled pie crust (filling will not reach top of crust). Arrange 5 dough strips vertically on filling (1 inch apart), pressing ends of strips into crust. Arrange remaining 5 strips over them in same manner to form a diagonal lattice. Trim crust 1/2 inch from top of filling, then fold over lattice. Brush edge with some of egg.
• Bake pie in middle of oven until pastry is golden and filling is puffed and set, about 1 1/2 hours, covering top of pie with foil after 50 minutes to prevent over-browning. Transfer to a rack to cool. Run a thin knife around edge of pie and remove side of pan. Chill pie at least 2 hours. Bring to room temperature before serving.