Neapolitan Ricotta and Wheatberry Pie

A Taste of Home: My Family's Easter Tradition

The aroma of baking pastry, a subtle hint of cinnamon and orange blossom water, always brings back a flood of memories. It's the smell of Easter, of family gatherings, and of my mother's hands diligently working away in the kitchen. For as long as I can remember, our Easter celebrations haven't been complete without her Neapolitan Ricotta and Wheatberry Pie, a pastiera napoletana passed down through generations.

My mother, born in Calabria, learned this recipe from her sister-in-law shortly after she and my father married in 1941. It's a recipe steeped in history, a testament to the enduring power of family and tradition. Each year, as the Easter season approaches, the anticipation builds. It's not just a dessert; it's a symbol of togetherness, a tangible link to our Italian heritage. The careful measuring of ingredients, the precise folding of the pastry, the gentle stirring of the creamy ricotta filling – these are more than just culinary steps; they're acts of love, performed with the same dedication year after year.

The recipe itself is a labor of love, requiring time and patience. The wheat berries need to soak overnight, the pastry requires chilling, and the baking process takes well over an hour. But the wait is always worth it. The moment the pie emerges from the oven, its golden crust glistening, the kitchen fills with an irresistible fragrance that draws everyone in. The taste is equally rewarding, a delightful blend of sweet and savory, creamy and subtly spiced, the perfect ending to an Easter feast.

More than just a recipe, the pastiera is a story. It's the story of my mother's journey from Calabria to Brooklyn, carrying with her the flavors and traditions of her homeland. It's the story of a sister-in-law's kindness, sharing a family treasure that has brought joy to generations. It's the story of family bonds strengthened over shared culinary experiences, passed down from one generation to the next, each family member adding their personal touch to the process.

Making the pastiera has become a ritual for my mother, my daughter, and me. We gather in the kitchen, amidst the floury chaos and the scent of baking, sharing stories and laughter. It's a time for connection, a reminder of the enduring strength of family ties. And as we work together, carefully assembling the delicate lattice crust, we're not just making a pie; we're creating memories, weaving another chapter into the rich tapestry of our family history. The pastiera is more than just food; it’s a living legacy, a delicious testament to the love that binds us.

This Easter, as we gather around the table to share this cherished pie, I'll take a moment to reflect on the generations that have come before us, their hands kneading dough, their hearts filled with love. The simple act of slicing into that golden crust, the first bite of creamy filling, is a profound connection to my past, a celebration of family, and a promise of traditions carried forward into the future. The legacy of the pastiera continues, year after year, a sweet and savory reminder of the enduring power of family, tradition, and love.

The pastiera is a window into my family's history. Its creation is a celebration of our heritage and a way of honoring the women who came before me. It's a dish that tells a story – a story of immigration, family bonds, and the enduring power of tradition. It's a story I am proud to share, and one that I will continue to share with my daughter and future generations. Every bite is a story, a memory, a taste of home, and a promise of the warm connections that bind us all together.

Beyond the simple ingredients, it's the love and dedication poured into each step that truly makes the pastiera special. It's a reminder that the most precious things in life aren't found in fancy restaurants or expensive ingredients but in the simple moments shared with loved ones, creating traditions that will last a lifetime. And so, each Easter, as we gather around the table to share the fruits of our labor, we're not just enjoying a delicious pie; we're celebrating the legacy of family and the enduring power of tradition. The pastiera is a testament to this, a delicious and heartwarming reminder of all that matters most in life.

Step-by-step

• Cover wheat berries with cold water in a bowl, then chill, covered, 8 to 12 hours. Drain in a sieve and rinse.
• Make pastry while wheat berries soak: Sift together 2 1/4 cups flour, 1/4 cup sugar, baking powder, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Blend in 1 1/4 sticks butter (1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons) with a pastry blender or your fingertips until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add 2 whole eggs and stir with a fork until a crumbly dough forms.
• Turn dough out onto a work surface. Divide in half and with the heel of your hand smear each piece of dough twice with a forward motion to help distribute fat. Gather dough and form into 2 disks. Chill, wrapped in plastic wrap, until firm, at least 1 hour.
• Make filling: Bring soaked wheat berries and cold water to a boil in a 2-quart saucepan, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, until wheat berries are tender, about 1 1/2 hours. Add remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and simmer 5 minutes more. Drain in a sieve and rinse under cold water until cool. Drain well.
• Whisk together 2 yolks and 1/4 cup sugar, then whisk in cornstarch and remaining 3 tablespoons flour until smooth. Bring milk to a boil in a small heavy saucepan, then gradually add hot milk to yolks, whisking.
• Pour custard into saucepan and bring to a boil over moderately low heat, whisking constantly (custard will get very thick), then boil, whisking, 1 minute. Remove from heat and whisk in vanilla and remaining 1/4 stick (2 tablespoons) butter. Transfer pastry cream to a bowl and chill, its surface covered with wax paper.
• Beat together ricotta and remaining 1/3 cup sugar with an electric mixer at medium speed until sugar is dissolved, about 3 minutes. Beat in flower water, pastry cream, and remaining 2 yolks, then stir in zest, citron, cinnamon, and wheat berries.
• Assemble and bake pie: Preheat oven to 350°F. Roll out half of dough into a 13-inch round on a well-floured surface with a floured rolling pin. Fit dough into a 9-inch (24-centimeter) springform pan (dough is very tender and will crack). Press dough against side of pan and patch any cracks. Chill.
• Lightly beat remaining egg. Roll out remaining dough into a 10-inch round and transfer to a baking sheet. Brush dough with some of egg, then cut into 10 (1-inch) strips with a floured pastry wheel.
• Spoon filling into chilled pie crust (filling will not reach top of crust).
• Arrange 5 dough strips vertically on filling (1 inch apart), pressing ends of strips into crust. Arrange remaining 5 strips over them in same manner to form a diagonal lattice. Trim crust 1/2 inch from top of filling, then fold over lattice. Brush edge with some of egg.
• Bake pie in middle of oven until pastry is golden and filling is puffed and set, about 1 1/2 hours, covering top of pie with foil after 50 minutes to prevent over-browning. Transfer to a rack to cool. Run a thin knife around edge of pie and remove side of pan. Chill pie at least 2 hours. Bring to room temperature before serving.