Neapolitan Ricotta and Wheatberry Pie

A Taste of Home: The Neapolitan Ricotta and Wheatberry Pie Tradition

The aroma of baking fills my kitchen, a comforting scent that transports me back to countless Easters spent with my family. The star of the show? Our Neapolitan Ricotta and Wheatberry Pie, a recipe passed down through generations, a tangible link to my Italian heritage. It’s more than just a dessert; it's a story, a tradition, a symbol of family togetherness.

My mother, originally from the sun-drenched hills of Calabria, learned this recipe from her sister-in-law shortly after she married my father in 1941. Imagine, a young bride settling into a new life in Brooklyn, embracing a new culinary tradition, and sharing the result with those she loved. That’s the essence of this pie – a recipe that has been lovingly refined over the decades, a testament to the enduring power of family recipes to bind us together.

The process itself is a celebration of slow cooking, careful technique, and the satisfaction of creating something beautiful from simple ingredients. Each step holds a memory, from the overnight soaking of the wheat berries – a quiet act of preparation, a promise of the deliciousness to come – to the delicate weaving of the lattice crust, a symbol of the intricate tapestry of family bonds.

The rich, creamy ricotta filling, fragrant with cinnamon and the subtle sweetness of candied citron, intertwines with the earthy texture of the perfectly cooked wheat berries. The flaky pastry crust, golden brown from the oven's embrace, provides the perfect counterpoint to the heartiness of the filling. The pie is a symphony of flavors and textures, a taste of home, and a celebration of family.

Making this pie isn't just about following instructions; it's about sharing moments, passing on skills, and creating memories that will be treasured for years to come. Each year, as the Easter season approaches, my daughter and I gather in the kitchen, following in our mother’s footsteps, recreating the magic. The flour dusts the air, our laughter echoes through the room, and the scent of baking fills our home, creating an atmosphere as warm and inviting as the finished pie itself.

It's a labor of love, this pie, and that is what truly makes it special. It isn't merely about the perfectly crafted crust or the precisely measured ingredients; it's about the memories woven into each fold of pastry, the stories whispered alongside each whisked egg yolk. It's about the legacy we carry, the traditions we uphold, and the bonds we strengthen each time we gather to bake.

So, gather your family, roll up your sleeves, and embark on this culinary journey. Allow the rhythmic motions of kneading and whisking, the tantalizing scent of baking dough, and the shared anticipation of the final product to weave their own unique story into your family history. The Neapolitan Ricotta and Wheatberry Pie is more than just a delicious dessert; it’s a testament to the power of tradition, the joy of family, and the enduring comfort of home.

More than just a recipe, it's an heirloom, a piece of our family history waiting to be savored, shared, and passed down to future generations. The timeless taste of Italy, baked into every bite. The joy of family, preserved in every slice. This pie is more than just food; it's a memory in the making.

Step-by-step

• Cover wheat berries with cold water in a bowl, then chill, covered, 8 to 12 hours. Drain in a sieve and rinse.
• Make pastry while wheat berries soak: Sift together 2 1/4 cups flour, 1/4 cup sugar, baking powder, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Blend in 1 1/4 sticks butter (1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons) with a pastry blender or your fingertips until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add 2 whole eggs and stir with a fork until a crumbly dough forms.
• Turn dough out onto a work surface. Divide in half and with the heel of your hand smear each piece of dough twice with a forward motion to help distribute fat. Gather dough and form into 2 disks. Chill, wrapped in plastic wrap, until firm, at least 1 hour.
• Make filling: Bring soaked wheat berries and cold water to a boil in a 2-quart saucepan, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, until wheat berries are tender, about 1 1/2 hours. Add remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and simmer 5 minutes more. Drain in a sieve and rinse under cold water until cool. Drain well.
• Whisk together 2 yolks and 1/4 cup sugar, then whisk in cornstarch and remaining 3 tablespoons flour until smooth. Bring milk to a boil in a small heavy saucepan, then gradually add hot milk to yolks, whisking.
• Pour custard into saucepan and bring to a boil over moderately low heat, whisking constantly (custard will get very thick), then boil, whisking, 1 minute. Remove from heat and whisk in vanilla and remaining 1/4 stick (2 tablespoons) butter. Transfer pastry cream to a bowl and chill, its surface covered with wax paper.
• Beat together ricotta and remaining 1/3 cup sugar with an electric mixer at medium speed until sugar is dissolved, about 3 minutes. Beat in flower water, pastry cream, and remaining 2 yolks, then stir in zest, citron, cinnamon, and wheat berries.
• Assemble and bake pie: Preheat oven to 350°F.
• Roll out half of dough into a 13-inch round on a well-floured surface with a floured rolling pin. Fit dough into a 9-inch (24-centimeter) springform pan (dough is very tender and will crack). Press dough against the side of the pan and patch any cracks. Chill.
• Lightly beat remaining egg. Roll out remaining dough into a 10-inch round and transfer to a baking sheet. Brush dough with some of the egg, then cut into 10 (1-inch) strips with a fluted pastry wheel.
• Spoon filling into chilled pie crust (filling will not reach top of crust).
• Arrange 5 dough strips vertically on filling (1 inch apart), pressing ends of strips into crust. Arrange remaining 5 strips over them in the same manner to form a diagonal lattice. Trim crust 1/2 inch from top of filling, then fold over lattice. Brush edge with some of the egg.
• Bake pie in the middle of the oven until pastry is golden and filling is puffed and set, about 1 1/2 hours, covering top of pie with foil after 50 minutes to prevent over-browning. Transfer to a rack to cool. Run a thin knife around the edge of the pie and remove the side of the pan. Chill pie at least 2 hours. Bring to room temperature before serving.