Turnip Cake (Law Bock Gow)

My Love Affair with Turnip Cake: A Culinary Journey

The aroma alone is enough to transport me back to bustling dim sum restaurants, the clatter of plates, the joyous chatter of families. But it's not just nostalgia that keeps me coming back to turnip cake (Law Bock Gow). It's the captivating blend of savory and subtly sweet flavors, the delightful texture – somewhere between a cake and a fritter – that makes this dish so incredibly moreish. This recipe, passed down through generations, is more than just a culinary creation; it's a celebration of tradition and a symbol of good fortune, especially during the New Year festivities.

Growing up, the New Year always meant the irresistible scent of turnip cake frying in our kitchen. My mother, a master of Chinese cuisine, made it a yearly ritual. It wasn't just a dish; it was a symbol of prosperity and hope for the coming year, a tradition passed down to her from her own mother. Each bite was a connection to my heritage, a taste of the past wrapped in golden-brown deliciousness. The process, though time-consuming, was always a source of family bonding. We'd peel and grate the turnips together, sharing stories and laughter, transforming a simple ingredient into something truly special.

The preparation itself is a journey. The steaming, the careful layering of flavors, the final golden-brown crispness – each step reveals a layer of nuance, a tapestry of tastes that builds to a crescendo of satisfaction. The careful attention to detail, from the precise chopping of the bacon to the delicate balance of the rice flour batter, is what elevates this dish from ordinary to extraordinary. It is a testament to the artistry of Chinese cooking, a reminder that even the simplest ingredients can create a masterpiece. And the final reward? Golden-brown, savory slices of turnip cake, each one a tiny pocket of history, a reminder of family, tradition, and the enduring magic of a simple, yet extraordinarily satisfying, dish.

The beauty of this turnip cake lies not only in its taste but also in its versatility. It is equally at home as a breakfast treat, a savory snack, or even a side dish alongside more elaborate meals. The slices, fried to perfection, offer a delightful crunch and a taste that is at once comforting and refined. It is a dish that can be shared with loved ones, enjoyed as a quiet moment of self-indulgence, or even packaged up for a thoughtful gift. Its simplicity belies its elegance, its humble ingredients concealing a symphony of flavor that lingers on the palate.

In a world where fast food dominates, it’s refreshing to embrace a recipe that demands time and attention, a recipe that encourages slowing down and appreciating the journey. The rhythmic grating of the turnips, the gentle simmering of the broth, the careful layering of flavors – these are not mere steps in a recipe; they are moments of mindfulness, a connection to a slower, more deliberate way of life. It's in these moments, surrounded by the comforting aromas of the kitchen, that I find a true sense of peace and connection to my heritage. And that, more than anything, is what makes turnip cake so much more than just a dish.

Ultimately, this turnip cake is more than just a recipe; it’s a story, a legacy, a connection to my family and my culture. It's a tradition that I am proud to continue, to share with others, and to pass on to future generations. And every time I make it, the fragrant steam carries with it not only the flavors of the past, but also the promise of new memories to be made.

Step-by-step

• Cut the bacon into 3 equal pieces and place in a 9-inch shallow heatproof bowl.
• Bring water to a boil over high heat in a covered steamer large enough to fit the bowl without touching the sides of the steamer.
• Carefully place the bowl into steamer, cover, reduce heat to medium, and steam 15 to 20 minutes, or just until the bacon is softened and there are juices in the dish.
• Check the water level from time to time and replenish, if necessary, with boiling water.
• Carefully remove the dish from the steamer and set aside to cool.
• Peel the turnip and grate to make about 4 1/2 cups.
• In a 3-quart saucepan, combine grated turnip and about 1 quart cold water, and bring to a boil over high heat.
• Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer 30 minutes, or until very tender.
• Drain, reserving the cooking liquid.
• Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, soak the mushrooms in 1/2 cup cold water 30 minutes, or until softened.
• Drain and squeeze dry, reserving the soaking liquid.
• Cut off and discard stems and mince the caps.
• In a small bowl, soak the dried shrimp in 1/2 cup cold water for 30 minutes, or until softened.
• Drain, reserving soaking liquid.
• Finely chop shrimp and set aside.
• Remove the bacon from its dish and reserve the juices.
• Cut off and discard the rind and the thick layer of fat.
• Cut the remaining meat into paper-thin slices and then finely chop.
• In a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or skillet, stir-fry the chopped bacon over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes, or until meat releases fat and just begins to brown.
• Add the minced mushrooms and shrimp, and stir-fry 2 to 3 minutes.
• Add the rice wine, sugar, and pan juices from the bacon, and stir to combine.
• Remove from heat.
• Return the cooked, drained turnip to the saucepan, add the bacon and mushroom mixture, and stir to combine.
• In a large bowl, combine the rice flour and the reserved mushroom and shrimp soaking liquids, stirring until smooth.
• Stir in 1 cup of the hot turnip broth.
• Pour this batter into the saucepan, add the salt, and stir until combined.
• The consistency will resemble that of rice pudding.
• Pour mixture into a heatproof 8-inch round, 3- to 4-inch-deep, straight-sided bowl, such as a soufflé dish.
• Bring water to a boil over high heat in a covered steamer large enough to fit the dish without touching the sides of the steamer.
• Carefully place the dish into the steamer, cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and steam 1 hour, or just until cake is set and is firm to the touch.
• Check the water level and replenish, if necessary, with boiling water.
• Carefully remove the bowl from the steamer and allow to cool on a rack for about 1 hour.
• Cover and refrigerate at least 3 to 4 hours.
• Run a knife along the edge of the cake to loosen sides.
• Place a cake rack over the bowl and invert to unmold.
• Flip the cake right-side up onto a cutting board.
• Wrap the cake in plastic and refrigerate until ready to use.
• When ready to eat, cut cake into quarters.
• Cut each quarter crosswise, not into wedges, but into two 2-inch-wide strips.
• Cut each strip crosswise into scant 1/2-inch-thick slices.
• This is the typical way of slicing a cake Chinese style.
• Heat a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or skillet, over medium heat until hot but not smoking.
• Add just enough oil to barely coat the wok.
• Add the turnip cake slices in batches and cook 2 to 3 minutes per side, until golden brown.
• Serve immediately, with oyster sauce.