New Year's Cake (Neen Gow)

A Slice of Tradition: My New Year's Neen Gow

As a busy working mom, time is a precious commodity. Holidays are often a whirlwind of activity, a blur of preparations and family gatherings. But there's one tradition I cherish above all others – making Neen Gow, or New Year’s Cake, for my family. It's more than just a cake; it's a connection to my heritage, a taste of my grandmother's kitchen, and a symbol of the hope and togetherness we celebrate in the new year. This year, as I embarked on making this beloved cake, I remembered my grandmother's servants, deftly scraping the brown candy to create the perfect sweetness. While I’ve opted for the easier method of dissolving the sugar, the essence of the tradition remains. The process of making Neen Gow, from the gentle kneading of the dough to the careful steaming and the final satisfying pan-fry, is a meditation in itself. It is a moment of peace and quiet reflection in the midst of chaotic preparation.

The aroma that fills the kitchen as the cake steams is intoxicating, a sweet and subtle fragrance that speaks of warmth, family and the sweetness of life. It's this aroma that brings back memories – memories of bustling kitchens, of shared laughter and helping hands, and of the joy of coming together to create something special. Each slice of this cake is imbued with the spirit of these memories. The texture is perfect – a delicate balance of chewy and tender, enhanced by the subtly sweet brown sugar. The egg-washed pan-fried slices add a delightful crispness that complements the tender inside. Neen Gow is not simply a dessert; it is a story woven into every bite.

Beyond the Recipe: The Heart of the Matter

More than the steps involved, the essence of making Neen Gow lies in the intention behind it. It's about slowing down, about taking the time to connect with the process and with those you share the experience with. For me, it's a chance to pass down a culinary tradition, to teach my children the importance of cultural heritage and family recipes. It’s also a chance to create beautiful memories. The children get to help with simple tasks – sprinkling sesame seeds, or carefully placing the red dates. These seemingly small moments are what create the larger picture of a cherished family tradition. While the modern world often prioritizes convenience, there is an immeasurable value in the time and care that goes into creating something from scratch, especially something as meaningful as the New Year's cake.

A Symbol of Unity and Hope

The glutinous rice flour, the main ingredient, symbolizes cohesiveness and unity, a perfect representation of what we hope for in the new year – a year filled with togetherness, harmony and shared joy. And as we gather around the table, savoring each bite, we reflect on the year past and look forward to the year ahead, bound together by the sweetness and tradition of this cake. Neen Gow is more than just a dish; it is a symbol of hope, a testament to the enduring power of family and tradition in a constantly changing world. It's a dish that nourishes not only the body, but the soul as well. This is why, year after year, I continue to make this special cake, a tradition I hope to carry on for generations to come. This ritual is a testament to the enduring power of family and heritage, serving as a reminder of the sweetness of life and hope for the year ahead.

Step-by-step

• In a small bowl, soak the red dates in 1/4 cup cold water for 30 minutes, or until softened. When softened, remove and discard the pits.
• Cut each brown candy slab into 8 pieces. Place sugar in a heatproof bowl, pour 2 cups boiling water over the sugar, and set aside until dissolved and completely cooled.
• Grease a heatproof 8-inch round, 3- to 4-inch-deep, straight-sided bowl, such as soufflé dish, with 2 teaspoons vegetable oil.
• In a large bowl, place rice flour. Make a well and stir in cold sugar water. Knead dough in the bowl, adding an additional 1/3 cup cold water until dough is smooth, slightly moist, and shiny, 5 to 10 minutes.
• Place the dough in the prepared dish and pat until it fills the dish evenly.
• Cut the red dates into halves and place cut-side down in a ring around the outside of the dough, leaving a few to decorate the center.
• Sprinkle the top with sesame seeds. Coat with the remaining 1 teaspoon oil, using your fingers and lightly pressing down on the dates and sesame seeds.
• Bring water to a boil over high heat in a covered steamer large enough to fit the dish without touching the sides of the steamer. Carefully place the dish into the steamer, cover, and steam 35 to 40 minutes on high heat. Check the water level and replenish, if necessary, with boiling water. The cake is done when it begins to pull away from the sides of the pan. Carefully remove the dish from the steamer and pour off any excess liquid on the surface. Place on a rack to cool.
• Loosely cover and set at room temperature in a cool room until the next day, when it will be ready to eat.
• Run a knife along the edge of the cake to loosen sides. Place a cake rack over the bowl and invert to unmold. Flip the cake right-side up onto the cutting board. Wrap the cake in plastic and refrigerate until ready to use.
• When ready to eat, cut the cake into quarters. Cut each quarter crosswise, not into wedges, but into two 2-inch-wide strips. Cut each strip crosswise into scant 1/4-inch-thick slices. This is the typical way of slicing a cake Chinese style. Beat an egg in a small bowl, until frothy. Dip the slices in egg.
• Heat a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or skillet, over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add just enough vegetable oil to barely coat the wok, add the egg-dipped slices in batches and cook 2 to 3 minutes per side, until golden brown. Serve immediately.