Zuni Ricotta Gnocchi

A Housewife's Culinary Journey: Mastering the Art of Zuni Ricotta Gnocchi

For years, the aroma of simmering ricotta gnocchi has filled my kitchen, a testament to a recipe that’s become a cherished family favorite. It’s more than just a dish; it’s a journey, a dance between the delicate balance of fresh ricotta, the whisper of herbs, and the satisfying warmth of melted butter. This recipe, adapted from Elizabeth David’s classic “Italian Food,” has become a staple, a testament to the simple elegance of Italian cooking.

The magic lies in the ricotta. Oh, the ricotta! Finding the perfect cheese is an adventure in itself. It’s a seasonal dance, a testament to the farmer’s care and the whims of nature. Sometimes, it’s wonderfully creamy and requires little tweaking. Other times, it's a bit too wet, demanding a bit more Parmigiano-Reggiano for that extra depth of flavor, or perhaps a touch more egg to bind it together. I’ve learned to adapt, to listen to the ricotta, to respect its personality. The supermarket's mass-produced ricotta just won't do; its texture is all wrong, lacking the delicate curds and the fresh, clean taste I crave. No, I need that fresh, handcrafted ricotta, the kind you find at farmer’s markets – a treasure I happily seek out.

Over the years, my ricotta gnocchi has evolved, morphing into a canvas for seasonal delights. In spring, the sweetness of peas, favas, and asparagus beautifully complements the creamy richness of the gnocchi. Summer brings the vibrant freshness of white corn kernels and basil, and a scattering of nasturtium blossoms for a pop of color. Autumn’s bounty includes earthy wild mushrooms, their fragrance deepened with a touch of white truffle oil. And in winter, when the air is crisp and the nights are long, nothing compares to the luxurious indulgence of black truffles, their earthy aroma a perfect match for the delicate gnocchi.

The process of making these gnocchi is almost meditative. The rhythmic rolling, the gentle shaping, the anticipation as they float to the surface in the simmering water—it’s a calming ritual, a connection to the simple pleasures of cooking. The finished gnocchi, light as a feather, melt in your mouth, leaving a lingering taste of creamy ricotta and a hint of whatever seasonal magic I’ve added. It's a dish that's both easy to make and profoundly satisfying, a perfect reflection of the simple joys found in good food and the heart of home.

Beyond the Recipe: The recipe itself is just a starting point. It’s an invitation to experiment, to adapt, to personalize. Don’t be afraid to explore the versatility of ricotta gnocchi. The beauty of this dish is its adaptability. Each season offers new possibilities, new combinations of flavors and textures to explore. And remember, the most important ingredient is the love and care you put into it—this is the true secret to creating something truly special.

Whether it's a cozy weeknight dinner or a special occasion gathering, these ricotta gnocchi have consistently brought joy and warmth to our table. I invite you to try them; they’re more than just a meal; they’re an experience, a culinary adventure waiting to be discovered.

Step-by-step

• PreparationTesting the cheese (the day before you make the gnocchi): Check the cheese for wetness. If you are lucky enough to have an individual basket-drained ricotta—youll see the basket imprint or dimples on the cheese—it may be sitting in a little whey; in this case, slide it out of the container and wick away the surface moisture with a dry towel. With any ricotta, place about 2 teaspoons of the cheese on a dry paper towel and wait for about 1 minute. There will always be a little wet spot under and around the cheese, but if the cheese has thrown a wide ring of moisture, it is too wet to use as is. Place it in a strainer, or double-wrap in cheesecloth, and suspend over a deeper receptacle to drain for 8 to 24 hours, refrigerated. Cheesecloth is more efficient, as it also wicks moisture from the cheese while gravity does its job of draining. You can also speed up the draining operation by cinching the cheesecloth tight and squeezing some of the moisture from the ball of cheese.
• Making the batter: Beat the ricotta vigorously, then smash a little cheese against the side of the bowl with a soft rubber spatula. If you can still make out firm curds, press the cheese through a strainer to break them up. Stir in the eggs. Melt the 1 tablespoon of butter—with the chopped sage, if using—and add to the batter. Add the nutmeg or lemon zest, if using. Add the Parmigiano and salt and beat the whole mixture very well. This is what makes the gnocchi light. You should have a soft, fluffy batter.
• Forming and testing a sample gnocchi: Make a bed of flour about 1/2 inch deep in a shallow baking dish or on a sheet pan. Scrape the sides of the bowl, mass the batter, and smooth its surface. Use a spoon held at an angle to shallow-scoop out 2 to 3 teaspoons of batter. Use your fingertip to push the almond-shaped scoop of batter cleanly from the bowl of the spoon onto the bed of flour. Shimmy the pan gently to coat the sides, then flip the gnocchi with your fingertip to coat the top. Lift from the flour and cradle and rock it in your palm. Dont squeeze it. You should have a dusty oval pod. As long as the general shape is uniform and rotund, dont worry that the gnocchi has a few wrinkles, dimples, and bumps. To check the batter, poach this first gnocchi in a small pot of simmering well-salted water. It will initially sink, but will then swell, roll, and bob to the surface. Maintaining the quiet simmer, cook until the gnocchi is just firm, usually 3 to 5 minutes from the time it floats, depending on the cheese and the size of the gnocchi. Dont boil hard, or the gnocchi may explode. If, even at a gentle simmer, the gnocchi spreads or starts to decompose, the cheese was probably too wet. This can usually be corrected by beating a teaspoon or so of egg white into the remaining batter. If the batter was very fluffy but the sample seems heavy, beat in about 1 teaspoon beaten egg. In either case, poach another sample to make sure the fix is successful. Taste the sample for salt, and adjust the batter if needed.
• Forming the remaining gnocchi: Use the same spoon-and-finger technique to form the rest of the gnocchi. I usually form them in groups of 4 to 6, placing them all at the same angle, and a few inches apart, in the bed of flour, then shimmy the pan to coat all of them at once; dont leave them sitting too long in the flour, or they will absorb too much. Keep scraping the bowl and smoothing the surface of the batter to permit smooth scoops. As with the sample, roll each gnocchi in your hand. Arrange them on a sheet pan lined with a flour-dusted sheet of parchment paper or wax paper. Be sure that the individual gnocchi are not touching one another. You can poach the gnocchi right away, but if you refrigerate them uncovered for about an hour, they will firm up, making them easier to cook and handle. (They will keep for up to 8 hours that way.)
• Cooking the gnocchi: Place the 8 tablespoons of butter and the 2 teaspoons of water in a 12-inch skillet; set aside. Bring 2 to 3 quarts water to a simmer in a wide pan, 10 or more inches in diameter, so the gnocchi wont crush each other too much as they push to the surface. A sauté pan, flared brasier, or saucier pan will work, as long as it is at least 2 inches deep. Salt the water liberally—about 1 teaspoon per quart. Add the gnocchi one by one, adjusting the heat to maintain the simmer. Dip your fingertips in water if you find they are sticking to the gnocchi, but dont fret if the gnocchi stick a little to the paper. Do avoid holding the tray of gnocchi in the steam. Cook the gnocchi as you did the sample, until just firm, 3 to 5 minutes from the time they float. Meanwhile, as soon as the gnocchi float to the surface, place the pan of butter and water over medium heat. Swirl the pan as the butter melts and begins to seethe. As soon as the butter is completely melted and has turned into an opaque pale yellow sauce, turn off the heat. Swirl the pan a few more times. Lift the gnocchi out with a slotted spoon or skimmer, slide into the ready skillet, and roll in the warm butter sauce. Serve instantly in warm bowls.
• Serving Suggestions: The mild flavor of the ricotta marries well with many other flavors and ingredients, especially sweet, subtle, or nutty ones. Whatever the companion, it should be tender and delicate—like the gnocchi themselves. Try serving the dumplings with a few leaves of sage, arugula, or spinach wilted in butter, or roll in melted butter with just-cooked baby carrots and fresh chervil. Or pair with tender flageolets finished with extra-virgin olive oil and black pepper. Or fold in matchsticks of just-cooked zucchini; its subtle flavor becomes clearer next to these gnocchi. In the spring, we offer them with barely cooked peas, tiny favas, or finely slivered asparagus, or all three. During summer, we match them with fresh white corn kernels cooked in butter with basil, or scatter them with chopped nasturtium blossoms. When tender-skinned Sungold Sweet 100 tomatoes are at their sweetest, we halve them, warm them in extra-virgin olive oil with basil, and toss them over the gnocchi. In the fall, fresh wild mushrooms slivered, stewed, and finished with white truffle oil are delicious with the gnocchi, and in the winter, whenever we have black truffles in house, we shave some generously over the dish.
• VariationSpinach & Ricotta Gnocchi Prepare the batter as above. Warm an additional tablespoon of butter in a 10-inch skillet over low heat. Add a few handfuls of spinach leaves—about 2 ounces. Salt lightly and, stirring and folding constantly, cook until the spinach is completely wilted but still vibrant green, 1 to 2 minutes. Slide onto a clean towel, cover with another towel, and press to extract the moisture. (The spinach will bleed green into the towel.) Peel off the spinach and chop into bits the size of fresh thyme leaves. Dont chop fine, and dont puree, or you will sacrifice the nice texture and burst of flavor it promises. Beat the spinach flecks into the prepared batter, then form and cook the gnocchi as described above.