Double-Dipped Buttermilk Fried Chicken

The Legend of Uncle Roger's Fried Chicken

Our annual homecoming reunion isn't just a gathering of family; it's a pilgrimage. For years, the highlight has been Uncle Roger Glenn's legendary fried chicken. A basket overflowing with impossibly crisp, juicy pieces, it's the culinary centerpiece of our celebration, held each year on the shaded grounds next to the Elderville cemetery. The scent of that chicken, mingling with the earthy fragrance of the old oaks, is deeply ingrained in my memories.

Last year, however, a tragedy struck. Uncle Roger, bless his heart, got his dates mixed up. He'd booked a hunting trip, a sorry old excursion he'd long planned, and he missed our reunion. The absence was palpable. The silence, broken only by the occasional rustle of leaves, was filled with the ghostly echo of what could have been. Cousin Vera, never one to mince words, summed up our collective disappointment perfectly: "We tell 'em we don't care if he comes, we just want his chicken."

Roger's chicken isn't just any fried chicken; it's a tradition, a sacred offering. Vera, along with her sisters Barbara and Gloria, carry on a peculiar but touching ritual. They carefully toss a chicken leg over the fence, placing it on the grave of their brother, Vance Mitchell, who passed away eight years ago. Before his death, Vance, always thinking ahead, had expressed his desire for even in the afterlife, a final taste of Roger’s exceptional culinary creation. He requested his burial near the barbecue pit, close to the heart of the annual feast. A truly remarkable legacy indeed.

The memory of that missing chicken haunted me. The emptiness at the reunion table, the lack of Roger's infectious laughter, the absence of that incredible aroma... it was more than just missing food; it was a severing of a connection. It was a loss of part of our shared family heritage, of a time-honored annual ritual.

Determined to salvage the situation, I knew I had to replicate Uncle Roger's masterpiece. I started with a few clues. He'd mentioned using buttermilk in his marinade. I’d also heard whispers of his "double-dipping" technique – dredging the chicken in flour twice, with a buttermilk bath in between, ensuring exceptionally crispy skin. My own version, inspired by his methods, became a labor of love; a way to bring back that part of our family heritage.

The process wasn't just about replicating a recipe; it was about recreating a feeling. The smell of the buttermilk and spices brought back memories of bustling kitchens, laughter and shared moments of joy. It was about more than just frying chicken; it was about family.

This year, as we gather for our reunion, I will be bringing my own basket of fried chicken, a tribute to Uncle Roger's legacy. While it may not be exactly the same, the chicken and the memories it conjures are now a part of our family's shared story, one that spans from table to graveside, a testament to the power of tradition.

And so, the legend of Uncle Roger's chicken lives on, now carrying the added flavour of family determination, and a touch of my own homemade love. It’s a dish that brings us together, both the living and those who have gone before us; a recipe imbued with love, tradition, and memories, and a delicious reminder that even in the face of disappointment, family and food have a way of overcoming even the greatest challenges.

Step-by-step

• Combine the buttermilk, thyme, Tabasco, Worcestershire, 1 tablespoon of the salt, and 1 1/2 teaspoons of the pepper in a nonreactive bowl large enough to contain all of the chicken pieces with at least 1 inch to spare. Add the chicken and turn to coat fully in the marinade. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours or overnight. Remove the chicken from the refrigerator about 45 minutes before frying.
• Line a large baking sheet with aluminum foil. In a large, shallow bowl, combine the flour, remaining 1 tablespoon salt, Cajun seasoning, and 1 teaspoon pepper. Remove the chicken from the buttermilk marinade and roll it around in the seasoned flour until completely covered. Set it on the prepared baking sheet; repeat with the remaining chicken. Dip the coated chicken pieces once more in the marinade, then again in flour. Return the pieces to the baking sheet (a few minutes' rest makes for a sturdier, crisper coating).
• Have a wire cooling rack set over paper towels ready. In a large, heavy Dutch oven, heat 1 1/2 inches of oil over medium heat until it reaches 350°F on a deep-fat thermometer. Using kitchen tongs, add a few chicken pieces at a time to the hot oil (crowding will lower the temperature, making for greasy chicken). Fry the chicken until the internal temperature reaches 180°F, about 10 minutes per side (watch carefully, it can easily burn). Transfer the cooked chicken to the wire rack. Serve immediately or at room temperature (don't let the chicken sit more than 2 hours).
• The chicken can be fried up to 2 days in advance, covered, and refrigerated. Serve it cold-a classic Texas picnic food-or reheat on wire racks set on baking sheets in a 375°F oven for 15 to 20 minutes.
• If the chicken looks pretty dark before it is cooked through, transfer to wire racks set on baking sheets and bake in a 375°F oven until the meat reaches an internal temperature of 180°F on an instant-read thermometer. Keep fried chicken warm in a 200°F oven. Using a digital thermometer eliminates the need to stand over the chicken. When the alarm sounds, the meat is done.