Sautéed Skate with Caramelized Apples and Chicken Liver

Sautéed Skate with Caramelized Apples and Chicken Liver
Sautéed Skate with Caramelized Apples and Chicken Liver
My introduction to skate took place when I was a child, during a summer spent on Cape Cod, where, with my older brother and sister, I ran into a fisherman. He was an old salt, his arms deeply tanned and wrinkled from the sun, his beard scraggly and speckled with dried seawater. We asked what he had been catching. "Skate," he replied. Not familiar with the fish, we inquired further and he told us, "In New England we call skate poor mans scallops." He explained that "back in the day," people on the cape would cut out rounds of the meat as a substitute for scallops because the species shared a common sweetness. What he didnt tell us is that skate is notoriously difficult to work with when whole. I learned that lesson the hard way and, at the same time, realized the true value of the fish. In the fall of 1999 I had a lot of free time on my hands. Annisa wasnt open yet and I was just learning the art of angling. Jen and I had driven all the way from Manhattan to Shinnecock Canal on Long Island because we heard that striper fishing was particularly good there. After a few hours, and a rough time of it, I landed my skate. I am by no means squeamish, but this fish broke me. None of my extensive culinary training prepared me for what followed. It was the skate that would not die. It took hours; multiple gashes in the head; a three-and-a-half-hour airless trunk ride from Long Island back home to Manhattan, and a drag-out struggle on the cutting board. We gave up the good fight and decided to let the skate die while we watched TV in the next room. Since that traumatic experience, I have not personally killed another skate, but its often on the menu at annisa. It is robust and, yes, sweet-flavored, but to call it "poor mans scallop" is inaccurate and doesnt do justice to the distinct character of the fish.
  • Preparing Time: -
  • Total Time: -
  • Served Person: Serves 4
Fish Fruit Sauté Mother's Day Dinner Apple Seafood Advance Prep Required Peanut Free Tree Nut Free Soy Free
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • pinch of salt
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • 4 1/2 tablespoons butter
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
  • 1 onion, finely diced
  • black pepper to taste
  • salt and black pepper to taste
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons butter
  • 3/4 cup chicken stock
  • 2 1/2 tablespoons sugar
  • 3 tablespoons brandy
  • 2 1/2 tablespoons neutral-flavored vegetable oil
  • 1 1/2 cup finely diced granny smith apples
  • 4 tablespoons neutral-flavored vegetable oil
  • 6 ounces chicken livers, finely diced
  • 4 (5 1/2-ounce) fillets skate
  • wondra flour
  • 1 lemon, halved
  • Carbohydrate 24 g(8%)
  • Cholesterol 276 mg(92%)
  • Fat 50 g(77%)
  • Fiber 3 g(11%)
  • Protein 35 g(70%)
  • Saturated Fat 16 g(81%)
  • Sodium 933 mg(39%)
  • Calories 705

A Culinary Adventure: Sautéed Skate with Caramelized Apples and Chicken Liver

My earliest memory of skate is inextricably linked to a childhood summer on Cape Cod. My siblings and I encountered a weathered fisherman, his face etched with the stories of the sea. He introduced us to skate, calling it the "poor man's scallop," a testament to its delicate sweetness, a sweetness that rivals the more expensive shellfish. He didn't mention, however, the challenges of preparing a whole skate—a lesson I learned the hard way years later.

The fall of 1999 found me with ample free time, a newly minted angler, and a yearning for adventure. My friend Jen and I embarked on a fishing trip to the Shinnecock Canal on Long Island, lured by the promise of abundant striped bass. Instead, fate—or perhaps a mischievous current—led me to a skate. This wasn't just any fishing experience; it was a battle of wills, a struggle that stretched over hours, defying even my culinary training. The tenacity of this creature was astonishing; it endured multiple wounds, a lengthy car ride, and an epic fight on the cutting board before finally surrendering. The experience left an unforgettable impression.

While I haven't personally caught a skate since that harrowing day, it remains a staple on my menu. Its robust flavor and delicate sweetness are a testament to its unique character. The "poor man's scallop" moniker, while charming, fails to truly capture the nuanced taste of this incredible fish. This recipe, inspired by my Cape Cod encounter and my subsequent culinary adventures, aims to showcase the full potential of the skate.

The caramelized apples provide a beautiful counterpoint to the richness of the chicken liver and the subtle sweetness of the skate. The vibrant flavors dance on the palate, creating a symphony of textures and tastes. Each bite is a testament to the journey from that unforgettable encounter on Cape Cod to the refined delicacy presented here. The preparation, though detailed, is a rewarding experience, yielding a dish that is both elegant and deeply satisfying.

This recipe is not merely a dish; it's a narrative woven into the very fabric of its creation. It's a tale of resilience, of culinary exploration, and of the unexpected gifts the sea can offer. It's a story waiting to be told with every delicious bite.

Beyond the Recipe: The beauty of cooking lies not just in the final product, but in the journey. This recipe is an invitation to explore, to experiment, and to discover the richness of simple ingredients transformed by a touch of creativity. Don't hesitate to adjust the seasoning, explore different types of apples, or even experiment with other liver variations. The joy of cooking is in the personal touch, the unique stamp that each of us leaves on the process. Let your palate be your guide.

This dish isn't just about satisfying hunger; it's about creating memories, sharing stories, and celebrating the culinary artistry of simple ingredients elevated by skillful preparation. It’s a reminder that even the most challenging ingredients can yield extraordinary results, and that every culinary journey is a rewarding adventure in itself.

Step-by-step

    • Make the sauce: Heat a saucepan over high heat. Add 3 tablespoons of the butter and swirl. Add the onion and lower the heat to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown. Add the brandy, then the stock, and bring to a boil. Cook until reduced by one third, then swirl in the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons butter. Season with the salt and pepper and keep warm.
    • Make the apples: Heat a sauté pan over high heat and add the oil. When just smoking, add the butter and apples and sauté for about a minute. Add the sugar and salt and cook until caramelized. Remove to a warm plate.
    • Make the chicken livers and skate: Heat two large sauté pans over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon oil and the butter to one pan and 3 tablespoons oil to the other. On a plate, season the livers and skate with salt and pepper and dust lightly with Wondra. When the oil in the pans is smoking, add the livers to the pan with the butter and the skate, whitest side down, to the other pan. Lower the heat to medium-high and cook until golden brown. Turn the skate and finish cooking on the other side. Squeeze lemon juice over the fish.
    • To serve: Pour some sauce in the center of a serving plate, followed by the skate. Top with the chicken livers, apples, and chives. Although the skate stands up to the chicken liver (the "poor man's foie gras"), too much liver will overpower the dish. So don't overdo it.
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