Soup Doria

A Princess's Simple Pleasures: The Story of Soup Doria

My culinary journey has been a tapestry woven with threads of unexpected encounters and cherished memories. One such memory, vivid and warm like a bowl of steaming soup on a chilly evening, is the story of Princess Doria and her beloved Soup Doria. It all began during my time in the bustling kitchens of Lespinasse, under the tutelage of the renowned Gray Kunz. The St. Regis Hotel housed a genuine Swiss princess, Princess Doria, whose nightly dinner requests were a delightful—and sometimes daunting—part of our routine.

Initially, Chef Kunz himself would cater to the Princess's culinary desires, a charming Swiss-on-Swiss connection. But as the demands of the restaurant increased, the responsibility of fulfilling Princess Doria's dinner wishes fell upon the shoulders of the sous chefs and myself. Night after night, the phone would ring, and I would have the honor of taking her order. She wasn't interested in elaborate, avant-garde dishes. Princess Doria preferred simple elegance, a refined home-style cooking that spoke of comfort and tradition. This preference inspired me to create several dishes specifically for her palate, all bearing her regal name: Salad Doria, Chicken Doria, and, of course, the star of this story, Soup Doria.

Soup Doria wasn't just any soup; it was a hearty, flavorful potage, a French twist on the classic minestrone. Think of a rich, chunky vegetable soup, brimming with the wholesome goodness of winter produce. The memory of preparing it for the princess always brings back a feeling of quiet satisfaction. It was a dish imbued with a unique personal connection, a testament to the simple joys of culinary creation.

Years later, after adventures cooking in France and helping to open Le Cirque 2000, fate intervened. One busy service night, the kitchen phone rang, and a familiar, French-accented voice asked, "Andrew?" It was Princess Doria, now a resident of the Palace Hotel. She had tracked me down and requested, with her characteristic grace, a bowl of her beloved Soup Doria. That moment solidified the recipe's significance for me, transforming it from a mere dish into a cherished emblem of a culinary friendship.

The beauty of Soup Doria lies in its simplicity and heartiness. It's a dish that truly embodies the essence of comfort food, a warm embrace on a cold night. The subtle sweetness of the vegetables, the savory depth of the broth, and the satisfying texture of each bite—it's a culinary symphony that celebrates the humble ingredients in the most elegant way. The simple act of adding a drizzle of hazelnut oil and a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese elevates it to a truly special experience.

This recipe is more than just a list of ingredients and instructions; it's a story, a connection, a testament to the enduring power of simple pleasures. It’s a reminder that sometimes, the most memorable culinary experiences are found not in elaborate techniques, but in the heart and soul poured into a humble bowl of soup.

More than just a recipe, Soup Doria is a testament to the unexpected connections forged in the culinary world, a delightful memory of a princess and her simple yet refined tastes. It's a dish that transcends the kitchen and becomes a story to be shared and savored, a comforting warmth on a cold winter's night.

I encourage you to try this recipe and create your own story around it. Let the aromas transport you, and let the warmth of this simple yet elegant soup nourish not only your body, but also your soul.

Serving Suggestions: Serve Soup Doria with crusty French bread for dipping. A drizzle of high-quality hazelnut oil or pumpkin seed oil adds a touch of sophistication, and a sprinkle of freshly grated Parmesan cheese completes the dish.

Step-by-step

• Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat.
• Add the bacon and let it render slowly in the olive oil, stirring every so often to keep it from sticking, for about 5 minutes, until it starts crisping up.
• Add the onions, leeks, and red pepper flakes. Turn the heat up to medium-high, mix the vegetables and the bacon together well, and let them cook for about 3 minutes, stirring every so often, until the onions and leeks have started to soften but the onions have not colored.
• Add the carrots, celery root, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, salt, pepper, chicken broth, and the herb packet. Mix everything together. Then turn the heat to high and let the soup cook at a low bubble for about half an hour, until the vegetables soften up (but before they get super-mushy).
• Add the kale, stir it into the soup, and cook it down for about 10 minutes, until it's soft and cooked all the way through. Pull out the herb packet.
• Serve the soup with some good bread on the side. I like to top each bowl with a drizzle of hazelnut or pumpkin-seed oil and a sprinkling of cheese.