Kentucky Burgoo

A Taste of Kentucky History: My Kentucky Burgoo Adventure

For years, I've been captivated by the stories surrounding Kentucky burgoo, a dish steeped in history and shrouded in intriguing legends. This hearty stew, somewhere between a thick soup and a robust stew, is more than just a recipe; it's a culinary time capsule, a testament to the rich tapestry of Kentucky's past. From the whispers of a mysterious "black snake" ingredient to the tales of Gus Jaubert, the "burgoo king," the lore surrounding this dish adds to its irresistible charm. My own journey with Kentucky burgoo began several years ago as I researched my cookbook, "Grass Roots Cookbook". During my travels across the Bluegrass State, I sampled burgoo at every opportunity, each bowl a flavorful adventure, a conversation with the past.

The evolution of burgoo is as fascinating as the dish itself. Originating, as many believe, during the Civil War, its composition has changed with time and place. Early versions contained ingredients readily available during wartime, while modern variations showcase the culinary bounty of Kentucky's farmland. While some recipes call for blackbirds, others feature squirrels or a host of other meats, vegetables, and beans. The common thread is a long, slow simmering process, allowing the various flavors to meld into a harmonious blend. The heart of burgoo lies not just in the varied ingredients, but in the communal effort of preparing it. It’s a dish that invites sharing, storytelling, and a celebration of Kentucky's unique culinary heritage. The hours spent simmering this incredible dish are not merely a culinary process, but a meditation on time and tradition.

My Experience with Lois Watkins' Recipe

One of the highlights of my culinary research was meeting Lois Watkins. She gifted me with her family's recipe, a downsized version of the famous Pete Light Springs Restaurant's burgoo. When she handed me the simple, handwritten recipe, she declared it the best burgoo in the world. After many successful batches, I wholeheartedly concur. Her recipe is not just about replicating a specific taste, but preserving a legacy, carrying the culinary torch from one generation to the next. It’s a tangible connection to the past, a recipe that speaks of family gatherings, shared meals, and the enduring spirit of Kentucky cooking.

Making burgoo isn't just about following a recipe; it's about experiencing a process, savoring the anticipation, and appreciating the culmination of flavors. The long hours of simmering allow the ingredients to intertwine, creating a depth of flavor and a rich texture that cannot be rushed. It’s a dish that evokes a sense of nostalgia, a warmth that transcends the simple act of cooking. It's a culinary embodiment of Kentucky's character – strong, flavorful, and deeply rooted in tradition. My own attempts at recreating this magical stew have been nothing short of a journey in themselves, each batch a testament to the patience, dedication, and deep sense of history that goes into creating true Kentucky burgoo.

The Allure of Kentucky Burgoo

The appeal of Kentucky burgoo extends beyond its delicious taste. It's the story behind it, the traditions it embodies, and the connections it forges that make it truly special. The lengthy preparation time makes it a dish meant for sharing, for gatherings, and for creating memories. It's a dish for celebrating life, for taking time, and for savoring the richness of Kentucky's history and culture. For me, Kentucky burgoo represents more than just a recipe; it's a cherished piece of Kentucky's culinary heritage.

Conclusion

Whether it's the legendary tales of a black snake adding a mysterious twist, or the heartfelt stories of families gathering around a simmering pot, Kentucky burgoo is more than just a meal; it is an experience. It's a flavor journey through Kentucky's history, a testament to its resilience, its traditions, and its enduring spirit. And it's a taste I'll continue to savor for years to come.

Step-by-step

• Place the chicken breast, thigh, and liver, the pork, and the cold water in a heavy, nonreactive 4-gallon kettle; set over moderately high heat and bring to a boil. Adjust the heat so the water bubbles gently, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove and refrigerate all pieces of chicken. Cover the kettle again and simmer the pork about 1 1/2 hours longer or until very tender.
• Remove the skin and bones from the chicken, cut the meat into 1-inch chunks, then pulse quickly in a food processor until the texture of coarsely ground meat (in the old days, the chicken was fed through a meat grinder). When the pork is tender, cut into 1-inch chunks, then pulse just as you did the chicken. Also pulse the chicken liver.
• Return the chicken, liver, and pork to the kettle, add the beans and their soaking water, the onions, tomatoes and their liquid, the corn, and peas. Cover and simmer for 1 hour.
• Add the salt, pepper, and butter, reduce the heat to its lowest point, and simmer the burgoo uncovered for 3 1/2 to 4 hours, stirring occasionally, or until as thick as chili. Note: If at any time the burgoo threatens to stick to the bottom of the kettle, slide a heat diffuser underneath.
• Taste the burgoo for salt and pepper, adjust as needed, then ladle into heated soup bowls.