Goat in Chile Marinade, Pit-Barbecue Style

A Culinary Journey to Oaxaca: My Barbacoa Adventure

The aroma of woodsmoke and spices still clings to my memory, a fragrant ghost of my time in Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca. It was there, in a small village nestled amidst vibrant landscapes, that I first encountered the magic of true Barbacoa de Cabrito. Zoyla Mendoza, a gracious woman with hands as weathered and wise as the ancient earth itself, shared her family’s cherished recipe, a tradition passed down through generations. The occasion was special; they don’t often indulge in such rich meats, saving them for celebrations. But to share their culinary heritage with me felt like a celebration in itself.

The scene was idyllic. Fresh avocado leaves, their scent subtly mingling with the earthy tones of the chiles, formed a verdant backdrop to the cooking process. The goat, young and tender, was slowly infused with a magical adobo—a marinade so fragrant it was intoxicating. The resulting meat was unlike anything I'd ever tasted: unbelievably tender, juicy, and bursting with complex flavors that defied simple description. It was a revelation, a culinary experience that transcended mere sustenance and became a deep connection to the heart of Oaxacan culture.

Returning to my bustling New York kitchen, I faced the challenge of recreating this masterpiece. The open-pit method, so integral to the original process, was difficult to replicate. But through experimentation, I found that a long, slow bake in a tightly covered pan produced remarkably similar results. The key, I discovered, lies in maintaining consistent moisture and heat, allowing the meat to gently melt in its own savory juices. I sought out the best ingredients, sourcing young goat, or lamb as a suitable substitute, from specialized butchers, ensuring only the freshest produce made its way into my adaptation of Zoyla's recipe.

Beyond the recipe itself, what resonated most profoundly was the deep sense of community and tradition embedded within this dish. Sharing meals is a fundamental part of Oaxacan life, a way of connecting with loved ones and strengthening bonds. This Barbacoa, with its lengthy preparation time, was more than just a meal; it was a testament to their patience and a reflection of their rich cultural heritage. It was a privilege to witness this and learn from Zoyla's expertise.

Preparing this barbacoa is an act of devotion, a culinary journey that connects us to the past. The precise grinding of spices, the careful preparation of the chile marinade, the slow, deliberate cooking process—all of these elements contribute to a final product that is far greater than the sum of its parts. It's a dish that evokes stories, memories, and the warmth of a shared table. This wasn't just about learning a recipe; it was about experiencing a culture and embodying its soul.

My version might not perfectly replicate the authenticity of the original, cooked over an open fire in Oaxaca. Yet, in each tender bite, I am transported back to that small village, feeling the warmth of the sun on my face and the satisfying aroma of the slow-cooking goat filling the air. And that, perhaps, is the true magic of this culinary journey.

Step-by-step

• Wash and griddle-dry the chiles by the directions below. Place in a deep bowl and cover generously with boiling water. Let soak for at least 20 minutes.
• Grind the cumin, cloves, allspice, oregano, and dried thyme (if using) together in an electric coffee or spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle.
• Drain the soaked chiles. Working in batches as necessary, place them in a blender with the ground herbs and spices (add fresh thyme at this point if using), garlic, onion, vinegar, salt, and about 1/2 cup water (or enough to facilitate the action of the blades). Process to a smooth puree (about 3 minutes on high), stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides with a rubber spatula. With a wooden spoon or pusher, force the puree through a medium-mesh sieve into a bowl. It should have the consistency of a thick but still moist paste.
• Season the pieces of goat or lamb with salt and pepper. Slather the seasoning paste all over the meat. Arrange in a large bowl (or any non-reactive container that's large enough), cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight or for at least 4 hours. Remove from the refrigerator about 2 hours before beginning the cooking, to let the meat come to room temperature.
• Preheat the oven to 325°F.
• Choose a deep roasting pan or baking dish large enough to hold the meat snugly. Scatter half of the avocado leaves across the bottom of the pan and arrange the meat on them. Scatter the remaining leaves over the meat. Cover the pan (wrapping very tightly with several layers of foil if there is no lid) and bake 6 to 7 hours (4 to 4 1/2 hours for the lamb). The meat should be almost falling off the bone.