Brioche Bretzels

A Taste of Home: My Father's Brioche Bretzels

The aroma of freshly baked bread has always held a special place in my heart. It's a scent that instantly transports me back to my childhood, to the warmth of my family's kitchen and the comforting presence of my father. Among the countless delicious recipes he shared with us, his Brioche Bretzels stand out as a true masterpiece—a testament to his skill and love for baking. These aren't your average pretzels; they're light, airy, buttery brioche dough shaped into the classic pretzel form, generously filled with a rich and creamy pastry cream. Each bite is a symphony of textures and flavors, a perfect blend of sweet and slightly salty, soft and slightly crisp.

My earliest memories of these exquisite treats are tied to my time in the army. Stationed near Toul, France, I discovered a local patisserie that crafted the most heavenly brioche filled with pastry cream. It quickly became my haven; a place where I could escape the rigors of military life and indulge in a moment of pure culinary bliss. The baker's technique, spreading the cream within the dough and rolling it into a neat coil, was ingenious and inspired my father to create his own version. He adapted the recipe, shaping the dough into delectable pretzel forms that are both beautiful and utterly delicious. It’s a family recipe, passed down to me with a sprinkle of nostalgia and a whole lot of love.

The beauty of these brioche bretzels lies not only in their taste but also in the process of making them. It's a labor of love, a journey from mixing simple ingredients to creating these works of edible art. The gentle kneading of the dough, the careful shaping of the pretzels, the delicate piping of the cream—each step requires patience and attention to detail, making the final product all the more rewarding. There is something magical in transforming humble flour, sugar, eggs, and butter into such an exquisite treat. It's more than just baking; it’s a meditation in the kitchen, a quiet moment of reflection between myself and the ingredients.

The memory of my father’s joy when I told him I would include his recipe in this collection is something I will always cherish. To me, this dish represents more than just a recipe—it is a tangible piece of my past, a symbol of the warmth, love and care of a family tradition. Every time I make them, a warm feeling washes over me, a happy reminder of our time together.

Beyond the Recipe: The brioche bretzels are much more than just a delicious treat for the taste buds, they also nourish the soul. The process of making them, from start to finish, is a meditative experience, a journey that takes me from the present to the nostalgic embrace of my family past. It's in those moments, amongst the flour and butter, that my heart finds solace and my spirit is replenished. So please, give these a try – not only for the delightful taste, but also for the journey that awaits you in the kitchen.

Step-by-step

• Pour the lukewarm milk into a small bowl. Add the yeast and the 1/4 cup of flour and whisk until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap and leave in a warm place until the mixture gets puffy and active, at least 15 minutes.
• Meanwhile, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, combine the remaining 2 1/2 cups flour, the sugar, and the salt. Add the eggs and the room-temperature milk to the bowl and knead on low speed until the dough is a smooth mass (it may not form around the dough hook), 5 to 8 minutes.
• While the dough is kneading, cut the butter into about 12 pieces. With the machine running on low, gradually add the butter, a few pieces at a time, until thoroughly incorporated. Continue kneading on low for about 8 minutes. The dough may still not form around the dough hook. Scrape the dough off the dough hook and add the yeast mixture. Knead on low speed until the dough feels smooth and elastic, yet still fluffy and soft, about another 10 minutes. It will remain sticky.
• On a lightly floured work surface, shape the dough into a ball, dust a large bowl lightly with flour, and add the dough. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave in a warm place to rise until doubled in size, about 2 hours. When ready, the dough will not spring back when poked gently with a finger.
• Punch the dough down and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface. Cut the dough into 12 evenly sized pieces (about 2 1/2 ounces each). Under cupped palms with stiff fingers, roll the pieces into tight balls. They should stick a little bit to the counter to create tension, so use very little to no flour on the countertop. Cover with a kitchen towel and let rest for about 15 minutes.
• To shape the bretzels, work sequentially, completing each step with all the dough. This allows the dough to rest and makes it easier to work. As you work, if the dough seems to fight you and doesn't stretch out, just let it rest for a few minutes and then continue. Line 2 baking sheets with nonstick baking mats or parchment paper.
• Preheat the oven to 350°F. Roll each ball into a log about 6 inches long. Then roll each of these into a long, thin rope about 30 inches long, tapering the ends to points, and immediately shape it and arrange it on the prepared baking sheet.
• To make the classic twisted pretzel shape, pick up the tapered ends of the 30-inch-long roll and cross your hands, right over left. The end that was on the right is now on the left. Repeat for a second twist. To complete the classic pretzel shape, lift the tapered ends and drape them over the sides of the bretzel, at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock. You can leave the tips on top or flip the bretzel over, covering the ends with the sides of the bretzel. Either is correct. Your finished bretzel should be about 5 inches wide with very large openings to fill the pastry cream.
• Meanwhile, scrape the warm pastry cream into a pastry bag fitted with a large round tip. As soon as you have shaped a bretzel, pipe the pastry cream into the open spaces of the bretzels, overfilling them so the cream mounds above the dough. This helps prevent the dough from springing back on itself. With a wet finger, smooth any points left by the piping. Set the bretzels aside in a warm place to rise, about 30 minutes.
• In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolk with 1/2 teaspoon water. With a pastry brush, brush the dough only with the egg wash. Bake until medium brown, about 20 minutes, rotating the pans front to back and top to bottom about halfway through. Let the bretzels cool for a few minutes on the baking sheets.
• Mix the powdered sugar in a bowl with just enough water to make a thin sugar glaze and brush it onto the breads. Let the bretzels continue to cool on the baking sheets until the pastry cream has firmed up.