Apple Pithivier

The Unexpected Delight of Apple Pithivier

My journey with the apple pithivier began not in a quaint French countryside kitchen, but in the bustling heart of New York City's Payard Patisserie. Having spent years honing my skills as a pastry chef in Boston, I was eager to learn from the renowned Chef Payard. My first day was a whirlwind of French recipes, a language I understood only partially. The word "pithivier" was completely new to me. It sounded exotic, mysterious, almost intimidating. Chef Payard, with a swiftness that only a master pastry chef could possess, created a masterpiece right before my eyes: a sunburst of golden puff pastry, cradling a warm, fragrant heart. It was a revelation, a pastry experience unlike any I'd had before.

The original pithivier recipe, with its rum-laced almond cream, was exquisite, but our version at Flour adds a delightful twist. We replaced the rum with a thick, luscious layer of caramelized apple butter, creating a unique flavor profile that perfectly complements the delicate almond frangipane. The contrast between the crisp, buttery pastry and the sweet, tart apple filling is simply divine. It’s a dessert that transcends a simple treat; it’s an experience, a journey for the senses.

More than just a recipe, the apple pithivier represents a testament to the transformative power of culinary exploration. It’s a symbol of my growth as a pastry chef, a reminder of the challenges I overcame, and the profound satisfaction that comes from mastering a complex technique. Each perfectly formed petal, each delicately etched sun ray on the surface, speaks of precision, patience, and a deep love for the art of pastry-making. It’s a recipe that I cherish, not just for its exquisite taste but for the memories and lessons it holds.

Making the apple butter is a journey in itself. The slow caramelization of the apples, the transformation from tart, raw fruit to a rich, golden brown paste, is a testament to patience and attention to detail. It's a process I find deeply satisfying, a kind of culinary alchemy that transforms simple ingredients into something truly extraordinary.

And the puff pastry? That's a whole other story! Rolling out the dough is a test of strength, a battle of wills between the pastry chef and a seemingly stubborn sheet of dough. But with a steady hand and a little persistence, the reward is a flawlessly smooth, perfectly even rectangle, ready to be transformed into a beautiful pastry canvas.

The assembly is a delicate dance of careful layering, precise sealing, and artistic flourishes. The final step, the intricate scoring of the pastry to create that iconic sunburst pattern, is a moment of pure creativity. It's where I can add my personal touch, a signature flourish that distinguishes my pithivier from any other. The anticipation as it bakes, filling the kitchen with the irresistible aroma of warm pastry and caramelized apples, is almost unbearable.

The finished product is a masterpiece of culinary art – a gorgeous, golden-brown pastry with a crisp exterior that melts in your mouth. The taste is a symphony of textures and flavors: the delicate crunch of the puff pastry, the rich, creamy frangipane, and the sweet-tart tang of the caramelized apple butter. It's a dessert that's perfect for any special occasion, or simply as a small indulgence for yourself. It's more than just a dessert – it’s an experience.

Beyond the technical skill and artistry involved in creating this pastry, the apple pithivier holds a deeper significance for me. It’s a symbol of growth, of overcoming challenges, and of the constant pursuit of culinary excellence. It reminds me of the importance of patience, precision, and the joy that comes from transforming simple ingredients into something truly extraordinary.

So, gather your ingredients, embrace the challenge, and embark on your own apple pithivier adventure. You might be surprised at what you discover along the way, both in the kitchen and within yourself.

Step-by-step

• To make the apple butter: In a large saucepan, combine the apples, butter, sugar, and salt. Split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and scrape the seeds directly into the pan (save the pods for adding to a canister of granulated sugar for vanilla sugar). Place over low heat and cook, stirring occasionally, for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the apples break down and the mixture thickens and turns golden brown. The mixture will release a lot of water at first and bubble a lot and then it will slowly start to caramelize and get a bit darker; there may still be some pieces of whole apple, which is fine. Remove from the heat and let cool. (The apple butter can be stored in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 4 days or in the freezer for up to 2 weeks.)
• Line the baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. On a well-floured work surface, roll the puff pastry into a rectangle about 24 in/61 cm wide and 12 in/30.5 cm from top to bottom. The dough may seem pretty tough and difficult to roll out at first. Don't be afraid to be firm with the dough as you roll it into the rectangle, flip it upside down, turn it side to side, pound it with the rolling pin to flatten it. Use a chef's knife to trim away any rough edges. Then, using the knife or a bench scraper, cut the dough in half vertically. You should have two 12-in/30.5-cm squares.
• Set one square aside and place the other square on the prepared baking sheet. In the center of the square, draw an 8-in/20-cm circle with your finger or lightly with a paring knife (without cutting all the way through). Using the offset spatula or the back of a spoon, spread the frangipane evenly on the pastry, filling just the circle. Top the frangipane with an even layer of the apple butter.
• Crack the egg into a small bowl and whisk with a fork. Using the pastry brush, brush some of the egg over the pastry around the circle.
• Again on a well-floured surface, roll the second puff pastry square so that it is slightly larger than 12-in/30.5-cm square. Drape the second square directly over the top of the first square. Using your fingers, press firmly all around the edges of the pastry to seal the two squares together. There will be a big mound in the center where the frangipane and apple butter are. Again, using your fingers, press firmly all around the circle; you want to enclose the frangipane and apple butter as much as you can within the circle.
• With a small paring knife, cut a scalloped petal pattern around the edge of the puff pastry to create a circle with a total of six or seven petals. Discard the puff pastry scraps (or save them for a quick treat: sprinkle with cinnamon-sugar and bake until golden. Refrigerate the pastry for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 days to allow the puff to chill and relax. (If chilling for longer than 30 minutes, cover the pastry with plastic wrap to prevent it from drying out. At this point, you can also wrap the unbaked pastry well with plastic wrap and freeze it for up to 2 weeks.)
• Preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C, and place a rack in the center of the oven.
• Using the pastry brush, brush the entire top of the pastry, including the petals, with the remaining egg wash. Poke a hole in middle of the circular mound at the center of the pithivier and then, starting from the center of this hole, use the tip of the paring knife to trace a curved sun-ray pattern into the mound, spacing the rays 1/2 to 1 in/12 mm to 2.5 cm apart and covering the entire mound with the curved rays. You should have eighteen to twenty-four rays. Don't cut all the way through the puff; just lightly score the dough with the tip of the knife. Trace a crosshatch pattern on the petals.
• Bake for 1 hour to 1 hour and 10 minutes, or until the dough is entirely golden brown and baked through. Look at the sides of the pithivier where the puff pastry has puffed up to make sure the sides are also golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool on the pan on a wire rack for at least 1 hour before serving to allow the filling to cool. This pastry is best served the same day, but you can hold it in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days and then refresh it in a 300°F/150°C oven for 5 to 8 minutes before serving.