Puerto Rican Pasteles

Puerto Rican Pasteles
Puerto Rican Pasteles
The Christmas season in Puerto Rico is blessed with balmy weather and clear skies. There is nothing like dining under the shade of a gourd tree on Christmas Eve, savoring every morsel of the earthy tamales called pasteles and adobo-flavored pork while looking at the sea. Puerto Rican women get together with their families to prepare pasteles by the hundred, freezing them until needed for Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, family reunions, the Fiesta de Reyes, and the religious season called octavas that follows the Feast of the Epiphany. It is the blend of the tiny pepper aji dulce and broad-leaf culantro in the fragrant sofrito (cooking sauce) that gives an unmistakable Puerto Rican identity to these earthy tamales. A dash of vinegar lends the sofrito just the right amount of tang against the mild dough of malanga and plantain tinted orange-yellow with achiote-infused lard. I learned to make these in the traditional kitchen of the Puerto Rican side of my family. While one person took care of trimming the plantain leaves, others were busy grating the vegetables and making the sofrito. There the vegetables are grated by hand, though you can find machines designed specially for this purpose in any market or use a food processor. Puerto Ricans are extremely fussy about the wrapping—it has to be perfect and watertight because pasteles are normally boiled. But I prefer to steam them.
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  • Served Person: Makes 25 pasteles
Central American/Caribbean Pork Steam Christmas Latin American Bell Pepper Christmas Eve Hominy/Cornmeal/Masa
  • 1 teaspoon dried oregano
  • 1/4 cup chicken broth
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons cider vinegar
  • 1/3 cup whole milk
  • 1/2 cup tomato sauce
  • 1/4 cup coarsely chopped cilantro
  • 6 large tomatoes (about 3 pounds), coarsely chopped
  • 1 medium green bell pepper (about 6 ounces), cored, seeded, deveined, and coarsely chopped
  • 1 medium yellow onion (about 8 ounces), coarsely chopped
  • 8 garlic cloves, peeled
  • 20 caribbean sweet peppers (ajã­es dulces), seeded and cut in half
  • 2 broad-leaf culantro leaves
  • 1/4 cup achiote-infused extra-virgin olive oil
  • 8 ounces slab bacon, rind removed, cut into 1/4-inch dice
  • 1 1/2 pounds boneless pork shoulder or butt, cut into 1/2-inch dice
  • 1 1/2 pounds malanga, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
  • 1 1/2 pounds green bananas, peeled and thickly sliced
  • 1/2 green plantain, peeled (see cooks' notes) and thickly sliced
  • 8 ounces calabaza (west indian pumpkin) or hubbard or kabocha squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch cubes
  • 1/4 cup achiote-infused extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/2 to 1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
  • twenty-five 12-inch plantain leaf squares (4 to 5 packages; see cooks' notes for how to prepare)
  • 1/4 cup achiote-infused extra-virgin olive oil
  • twenty-five 42-inch pieces of kitchen twine
  • 1/3 cup dark raisins
  • one 15-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed, or 2 cups cooked chickpeas
  • 2 medium red bell peppers (about 6 ounces), roasted (see cooks' notes), peeled, cored, seeded, and cut into 1/4-inch-wide strips
  • 50 pimiento-stuffed olives, cut in half

A Taste of Home: My Puerto Rican Pastel Tradition

The aroma of simmering pork, the vibrant green of plantain leaves, the earthy sweetness of malanga – these are the scents and tastes that transport me back to Christmases spent in Puerto Rico. The making of pasteles, these savory tamales, is more than just cooking; it's a cherished family tradition, a celebration of heritage passed down through generations of women. It's a labor of love, a testament to the enduring spirit of Puerto Rican family and festive gatherings.

I remember vividly the bustling kitchen, a symphony of chopping, grating, and laughter. Aunts, cousins, and grandmothers worked in harmonious chaos, their hands expertly shaping the masa, deftly wrapping the fillings in fragrant leaves. The air thrummed with excitement and the promise of a delicious Christmas Eve feast. Each pastel was a small parcel of love, carefully crafted and infused with the warmth of shared memories. More than just a dish, they are a symbol of family unity, a connection to our roots, and a reminder of the simple joys of togetherness.

The recipe itself is a story, a culinary tapestry woven with the threads of history and tradition. From the subtly sweet aji dulce peppers to the fragrant culantro, each ingredient plays a vital role, contributing its unique flavor and texture to the harmonious whole. The achiote-infused lard lends a beautiful orange hue, reflecting the warmth and vibrancy of the island's spirit. And the plantain leaves, carefully prepared and expertly wrapped, serve as both a vessel and a protective embrace for the precious filling within.

The process of making pasteles is a journey in itself, a testament to patience and meticulous care. The preparation of the recado, the sofrito, the masa – each step is a ritual, performed with reverence and precision. The wrapping is an art form, a delicate dance of folds and ties that requires both skill and patience. The final act of steaming, the gentle release of steam carrying the tantalizing aromas, is the culmination of hours of work, the promise of a reward well earned.

But the real magic lies not just in the recipe itself, but in the shared experience of creating it. It's the laughter, the stories, the bonds strengthened over steaming pots and shared work. It's the feeling of belonging, the sense of continuity, the knowledge that we are carrying on a tradition that has enriched countless lives. And it’s this shared experience, this deep connection to family and heritage, that truly makes these pasteles so special.

These aren't just tamales; they are a bridge between generations, a testament to the enduring power of family traditions, and a reminder of the simple joys that make life meaningful. And for me, each bite is a taste of home, a taste of love, a taste of Christmas in Puerto Rico.

Beyond the Recipe: A Reflection on Tradition

The act of preparing pasteles transcends the mere preparation of a meal; it is a cultural ritual, a testament to the enduring legacy of Puerto Rican women and their culinary artistry. The preparation involves a meticulous process, often a collaborative effort amongst family and friends, fostering a sense of community and shared experience. This collective effort, passed down through generations, highlights the deep-rooted importance of family and tradition within Puerto Rican culture.

The specific ingredients, such as the aji dulce peppers and culantro, contribute not just to the flavor profile but also to the unique cultural identity of the dish. These ingredients, often sourced locally, reflect a connection to the land and its bounty. Furthermore, the use of plantain leaves as wrappers adds another layer of authenticity, showcasing the resourcefulness and respect for nature that characterize Puerto Rican cuisine.

Beyond its culinary significance, the pastel represents a potent symbol of cultural preservation and continuity. In a world characterized by rapid change and globalization, the continued practice of preparing pasteles serves as a powerful reminder of the enduring strength of cultural traditions and their ability to withstand the test of time. It is a legacy that is not only tasted but experienced, shared, and passed on to future generations, ensuring the survival of a rich and vibrant cultural heritage.

The meticulousness and dedication involved in preparing pasteles reflect a deep appreciation for the art of cooking and the importance of celebrating cultural heritage. It's a tradition that should be cherished, preserved, and passed on, reminding us of the simple joys of togetherness and the enduring power of culinary traditions.

Step-by-step

    • Making the Recado: Place all the ingredients in a blender or food processor and puree. Set aside.
    • Making the Sofrito: Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the bacon and brown for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the pork and cook, stirring, until it begins to release its fat, about 15 minutes. Stir in the recado, reduce the heat to low, and cook, covered, for about 50 minutes, or until the pork is tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife. Add some chicken broth if the sauce thickens too much during cooking. When the meat is done, transfer it to a plate with a slotted spoon. Set the sauce aside.
    • Making the Masa: Working in 2 or 3 batches, puree the milk, malanga, green bananas, green plantain, and calabaza in a blender or food processor and pour into a large bowl. Add the oil and salt and mix well to color the masa evenly. Stir in the reserved sauce. Taste for seasoning and set aside.
    • Wrapping the Tamales: Place one plantain leaf square on a work surface with the veins perpendicular to you. Brush generously with achiote oil. Place 3 heaping tablespoons of masa in the center of the leaf and spread into a 6-inch square, leaving a 3-inch margin on all sides. Place 3 tablespoons of the diced pork on top, forming a rectangle. Garnish with 4 raisins, 4 chickpeas, a strip of red pepper, and 4 olive halves. Tie the tamal following the instructions for the pastel wrap. Repeat with the remaining wrappers and ingredients.
    • Cooking the Tamales: Using two steamers (or working in batches), steam for about 1 hour.