Kentucky Burgoo

A Kentucky Kitchen Classic: The Story of Burgoo

My love affair with Southern cooking began years ago, fueled by a deep desire to understand the rich culinary heritage of my region. It's a journey of taste, tradition, and the countless stories whispered through generations in kitchens across the South. One dish, in particular, captivated my imagination: Kentucky Burgoo. This isn't just a soup; it's a culinary tapestry woven with threads of history, legend, and a whole lot of heart.

The first time I encountered burgoo, it wasn’t just a meal; it was an experience. The rich, savory aroma filled the air, promising a warmth and comfort that transcended simple sustenance. The taste was a revelation – a symphony of flavors that danced on the palate, leaving an unforgettable impression. It’s a dish that defies easy categorization; somewhere between a hearty stew and a robust soup, with a depth that only hours of simmering can achieve. It's a dish born from practicality, shaped by time, and perfected by generations of cooks.

My research led me down a fascinating rabbit hole. The origins of burgoo are shrouded in a haze of lore and conflicting accounts, like a good mystery novel. One tale speaks of a French chef, Gus Jaubert, serving Confederate General John Hunt Morgan during the Civil War. Legend says Jaubert, hindered by a speech impediment, inadvertently christened his creation "burgoo" – a mangled pronunciation of what might have been "blackbird stew". Another version credits Jaubert's burgoo to simple necessity – combining whatever ingredients were readily available, turning humble squirrel and scavenged vegetables into a truly satisfying meal.

Regardless of its exact origins, one thing is certain: burgoo quickly became a Kentucky staple, a beloved dish enjoyed at gatherings, celebrations, and family meals. The recipe itself varies widely, reflecting the improvisational spirit of Southern cooking. Some versions include chicken, others pork; some boast an abundance of vegetables, others focus on a simpler combination. The common thread is the long, slow simmering that allows the flavors to meld and deepen, creating a complexity that’s truly unique. The recipe I share today is a variation passed down from Lois Watkins, a Kentucky cook who, in her words, makes the "best burgoo in the world".

Making burgoo is an act of love and patience. It's a dish that demands time and attention – a slow, deliberate process that allows the flavors to develop their full potential. The hours spent simmering aren’t just about cooking; they're about creating a sense of community, sharing stories, and savoring the anticipation of a truly exceptional meal. This is the magic of Southern cooking – the ability to transform humble ingredients into something truly remarkable, something imbued with history, tradition, and the unwavering love of those who share it.

And so, as the aromas of slowly simmering chicken, pork, and vegetables fill my kitchen, I can’t help but feel a connection to the generations of cooks who came before me. I'm not just making a meal; I'm participating in a culinary tradition that's rich in history and flavor, a tradition that's as comforting as it is captivating. The legacy of Kentucky burgoo continues, passed down from one cook to another, and I am proud to carry the torch.

Beyond the delicious taste and the captivating history, Kentucky burgoo represents the heart of Southern hospitality. It’s a dish that brings people together, sharing laughter, stories, and the comfort of a shared meal. The time spent preparing it is a reflection of the love and care that goes into creating a truly memorable culinary experience. The long, slow simmering mirrors the slow, deliberate pace of Southern life, an appreciation for taking the time to enjoy life's simple pleasures.

It's more than just a recipe; it's a tradition. A way of connecting with the past, sharing with the present, and looking forward to the future. Whether you're a seasoned Southern cook or a newcomer to the culinary traditions of Kentucky, I hope you'll embrace the spirit of burgoo and experience the joy of sharing this classic dish with those you love. It's a tradition that deserves to be shared, savored, and celebrated for generations to come.

Step-by-step

• Place the chicken breast, thigh, and liver, the pork, and the cold water in a heavy, nonreactive 4-gallon kettle; set over moderately high heat and bring to a boil. Adjust the heat so the water bubbles gently, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove and refrigerate all pieces of chicken. Cover the kettle again and simmer the pork about 1 1/2 hours longer or until very tender.
• Remove the skin and bones from the chicken, cut the meat into 1-inch chunks, then pulse quickly in a food processor until the texture of coarsely ground meat (in the old days, the chicken was fed through a meat grinder). When the pork is tender, cut into 1-inch chunks, then pulse just as you did the chicken. Also pulse the chicken liver.
• Return the chicken, liver, and pork to the kettle, add the beans and their soaking water, the onions, tomatoes and their liquid, the corn, and peas. Cover and simmer for 1 hour.
• Add the salt, pepper, and butter, reduce the heat to its lowest point, and simmer the burgoo uncovered for 3 1/2 to 4 hours, stirring occasionally, or until as thick as chili. Note: If at any time the burgoo threatens to stick to the bottom of the kettle, slide a heat diffuser underneath.
• Taste the burgoo for salt and pepper, adjust as needed, then ladle into heated soup bowls.