Wild Boar Ragù

Wild Boar Ragù
Wild Boar Ragù
Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are from I Like Food, Food Tastes Good: In the Kitchen with Your Favorite Bands by Kara Zuaro. The Violent Femmes, from Brian Ritchie. If adolescence had an official soundtrack, it would be provided by the Violent Femmes. Brian Ritchie's acoustic bass line has no doubt rocked your teenage dance parties, and now he's going to up the ante at your next dinner soirée. "My strategy is to eat food at a restaurant and then try to guess how they made it. Then I add my own ideas," Brian explains. "I used to live in Italy, and this is my version of something I had in Florence. This recipe is as good as what you'd get there." I picked up some wild boar from New York's Citarella Fine Foods, but I had to place an order a few days in advance, and the smallest amount they would sell me was a whopping five pounds of meat. Fortunately, this deeply flavorful stew is something I'll be happy to make again (half the boar is still in my freezer)—but if you don't have easy access to wild boar, try another type of meat, as Brian suggests below. "Ragù is a winter dish characterized by meat and tomatoes. It is traditional to cook it all day, adding more liquid if it starts to dry out. Italians use fresh tomatoes in the summer and canned in winter. Making a ragù is like playing jazz. You have to be creative, tasteful, and able to adapt to the circumstances. The beauty of ragù is that everybody is free to develop their own. Aside from meat and tomatoes, you can basically add whichever other spices and ingredients appeal to you. If you don't want wild boar, substitute any other meat you like—lamb, pork, veal, beef, or venison. I have made this dish with all of those depending on availability and what looks good at the butcher. Note: I do not use a recipe or exact quantities when I cook. These quantities are just to give you a rough idea. Adjust to your taste." —Brian Ritchie
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  • Served Person: Makes 4 to 6 servings
Italian Cheese Dairy Fish Garlic Herb Onion Pasta Pepper Tomato Sauté Dinner Peanut Free Tree Nut Free Soy Free
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
  • 1 cup red wine
  • salt and black pepper to taste
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 1 can chopped tomatoes
  • 5 cloves garlic, crushed
  • 5 cloves
  • n/a
  • 1 large spanish onion (chopped)
  • 2 pounds boneless wild boar meat (cut for stew)
  • 3 dried chili peppers (crushed)
  • 3 sun-dried tomatoes
  • 3 anchovies or 1 teaspoon anchovy paste
  • fresh or dried oregano, basil, and sage
  • pasta (pappardelle or fettuccine)
  • grated pecorino cheese (parmigiano is an acceptable substitute, but pecorino, being sheep cheese, complements game)

A Home Cook's Journey: Mastering the Art of Wild Boar Ragù

My kitchen is my sanctuary. It's where I de-stress after a long day, where the aroma of simmering spices fills the air, and where culinary adventures unfold. Today's adventure? Wild boar ragù, a recipe I discovered tucked away in a cookbook gifted by a dear friend. The recipe's origin story alone is captivating; it comes from Brian Ritchie of the Violent Femmes, who developed it based on his memories of Italian cooking. It’s a recipe that whispers tales of Florence, of sun-drenched markets, and of slow-cooked perfection.

The idea of cooking wild boar initially intimidated me. It felt... adventurous. However, the recipe’s simple elegance, coupled with Brian's encouraging words about improvisation, eased my apprehension. I pictured myself, a modern-day homemaker balancing a demanding career and family life, standing proudly by the stove, stirring a rich, fragrant stew. The image alone filled me with quiet satisfaction. I imagined the scent carrying through the house, tempting my family to eagerly await the evening meal. This wasn’t just dinner; it was a labor of love, a testament to the power of slow cooking and the joy of creating something nourishing and delicious from scratch.

The initial preparations were straightforward: sautéing onions, browning the boar meat. I savored the moment, the familiar clink of the cast-iron pot, the satisfying sizzle of the meat. The aroma, already rich and savory, began to fill my kitchen, promising a delicious reward for my efforts. Then came the layering of flavors – the canned tomatoes, the fragrant herbs, a splash of red wine. Each addition was a small act of culinary artistry, building towards a symphony of taste. I let the ragù simmer, patiently tending to it as the hours drifted by. The anticipation was palpable. The kitchen transformed into a warm, inviting haven, filled with the comforting scent of the slow-cooking stew. I found myself lost in thought, reflecting on my day, on my family, on the simple pleasures that make life worthwhile. The process was therapeutic, a chance to disconnect from the whirlwind of daily life and reconnect with something deeply satisfying: good food, good company (even if that company was just myself), and the fulfillment of a perfectly prepared meal.

As the hours passed, the initial robust flavour of the boar gradually mellowed, deepening into a rich, complex tapestry of taste. The meat, initially firm, had transformed into tender, succulent shreds. The ragù, having absorbed the essence of the spices and wine, possessed a depth of flavor that simply couldn’t be rushed. It was a testament to the patience and slowness required to create something truly extraordinary. This wasn't just a meal; it was a story woven into every strand of meat, every drop of sauce.

Finally, the moment arrived when the ragù reached its culinary zenith. I carefully removed the bay leaves and cinnamon stick, revealing a stew of remarkable depth and beauty. The sight alone was enough to make my heart swell with pride. The aroma, having intensified with each passing hour, was intoxicating. With a hearty scoop of the ragù and freshly cooked pasta, I savored the results. Each mouthful was an explosion of flavor, a tribute to the artistry of slow cooking and the simple pleasure of a well-executed recipe. It was, without a doubt, the best ragù I had ever tasted. It was more than just a meal; it was a statement of my culinary growth, a reminder of the magic that can be created in the humble confines of a home kitchen. A perfect testament to the transformative power of good food and the enduring legacy of a classic Italian recipe.

The next day, I served the remaining ragù to my family. Their enthusiastic approval, their contented sighs as they savored each bite, was the ultimate reward. This wasn't just a meal; it was a shared experience, a moment of connection forged in the warmth of a home-cooked meal, a reminder that some of life’s most precious moments are found around the dinner table.

This Wild Boar Ragù recipe, originally crafted by Brian Ritchie, has found a permanent home in my recipe book, a testament to its deliciousness and the profound connection I've forged with it. More than just a dish, it's a culinary journey, a testament to the transformative power of slow cooking and the enduring legacy of a classic Italian dish, seasoned with a dash of personal experience and home-cooked affection.

Step-by-step

    • In a large cast-iron pot, sauté the onion in olive oil until translucent.
    • Add the boar meat and brown. (That is, cook the meat over high heat, turning frequently, just until it's cooked on the outside.)
    • Add the canned tomatoes and the bay leaves.
    • Add the wine.
    • Gradually add the garlic, dried chili, cinnamon stick, cloves, sun-dried tomatoes, anchovies (or anchovy paste), oregano, basil, sage, red wine vinegar, and salt and black pepper to taste.
    • Simmer on low on the stovetop with the lid of the pot slightly ajar, and stir occasionally for at least two hours—or longer if possible. The longer you simmer this, the more tender the meat will become. The ragù is ready to eat when the meat has totally fallen apart and most of the liquid has been absorbed by the meat. Take out the cinnamon stick and bay leaves before serving.
    • Serve over the pasta and top with grated cheese. Accompany with some crusty peasant bread and a good red wine, preferably a strong Italian, like Amarone or Barolo. Mangia!