Carbonara (Guanciale, Egg, and Pecorino Romano)

Carbonara (Guanciale, Egg, and Pecorino Romano)
Carbonara (Guanciale, Egg, and Pecorino Romano)
More than forty years ago, I returned from a college semester in Rome to a New York still awash in thick tomato sauce. My Roman discovery, spaghetti alla carbonara, was still unknown, and my friends were skeptical of a sauce that wasnt red. Today Americans have adopted carbonara with a vengeance and feel free to vary it as they please. But while it is very tempting to add things to the basic carbonara, and far be it from us to step on your creativity, dont call it carbonara if you add mushrooms or peas or anything else. The carbonara wars are even more heated than the amatriciana wars. Not even Oretta and I agree on every detail. Oretta feels some oil helps the guanciale to cook evenly, while I, from a North American bacon culture, find that starting the guanciale in a cold pan will render enough fat to obtain the same result without introducing another ingredient and another flavor, especially one that the inventors of the dish did not use. If you start playing with the formula to reduce the cholesterol, however, just skip it and make a broccoli sauce. The more or less civil disagreements are over minor variations. There is debate over whether to use whole eggs or just yolks and whether parmigiano is admissibleyes, its widely accepted on grounds of deliciousness, but pecorino romano alone is more faithful to the lost original. Experts and aficionados pretty much agree that the meat of choice should be guanciale, with pancetta as understudy. Bacon, which is smoked, imparts an undesirable breakfasty taste. No butter, no creambut a slosh of starchy pasta water can be used to smooth things out if you start to panic. It is incorrect to speak of carbonara sauce because the dish belongs to the group of pastas that are inseparable from their condiment. The ingredients are prepped and ready for action, but the saucea golden cream studded with glistening guanciale bitsis created right on the pasta itself. And, careful, cream here means something creamy. There is no cream in carbonara. The charcoal makers of northern Lazio, Abruzzo, and Umbria used to make it outdoors. Do you think they used butter and cream? This simple dish requires practice; dont make it for company till youve tried it in private. You will eventually develop your own moves and rhythm and find just the spot in your kitchen where everything will keep warm without cooking. Long ago I became devoted to the Salton Hotray, an electric food warmer and popular wedding present in the era of my first marriage. I still love it for carbonara and much else. Use the best, freshest eggs you can find, and dont even think of making this dish with eggs from stressed-out battery chickens. You can taste the difference. If you can find real guanciale, so much the better. Once the eggs have been added to the pasta, do not let the pan touch the heat directly or you will wind up with scrambled eggs. A low setting on an electric food warmer, like my old Hotray, is safe and effective.
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Italian Egg Pasta Dinner
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 4 ounces (115 grams) guanciale, cut into 1/4-inch (1/2-centimeter) dice
  • 2 generous tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, preferably lightly fruity
  • 3 large eggs, at room temperature
  • 10 rounded tablespoons (100 grams) freshly grated pecorino romano, or half pecorino romano and half parmigiano-reggiano
  • 1 pound (450 grams) pasta (see note below)

A Roman Holiday: My Love Affair with Spaghetti Carbonara

My culinary journey began, not in a professional kitchen or fancy cooking school, but in the heart of Rome, during a semester abroad in college. It was there, amidst the ancient ruins and bustling piazzas, that I discovered a dish that would forever change my relationship with pasta: Spaghetti Carbonara. Back in New York, where thick tomato sauces reigned supreme, my friends were utterly bewildered by this creamy, rich pasta dish. It was a revelation, a culinary secret whispered on the wind. It was unlike anything I had ever tasted before.

The Essence of Simplicity

The beauty of carbonara lies in its simplicity. It's not about a multitude of ingredients or complex techniques. It’s about the quality of the few ingredients you use, and the precise way you bring them together. The perfectly rendered guanciale, salty and subtly sweet; the rich, creamy eggs coaxed to perfection by the heat of the pasta; the sharp bite of pecorino romano cheese. Each element is crucial, each plays a vital role in creating a symphony of flavors.

A Dish Steeped in Tradition

Unlike many modern pasta dishes, carbonara's origins are steeped in history and tradition. It’s a dish that demands respect, and a reverence for its original form. There’s a certain pride that comes with making a dish so authentic, so true to its origins. This is why the addition of cream or peas or mushrooms is an utter travesty to many of us who cherish its traditional form. The creamy texture comes purely from the emulsification of the eggs and cheese with the starchy pasta water – nothing else.

More Than Just a Meal: A Culinary Experience

Making carbonara is an experience, a quiet dance in the kitchen. It's a testament to the power of simplicity and the joy found in crafting a perfect dish. The rhythmic tossing of the pasta, the careful pouring of the egg mixture, it's a ballet of culinary precision. And the moment you serve it, hot and fragrant, to yourself or loved ones, that's where the magic truly is. It's not just about sustenance. It's a connection to tradition, to Italy, to a simpler time.

The Perfect Pasta Partner

While spaghetti is the classic choice, the right pasta for carbonara really depends on personal preference. I often use bucatini, its thicker gauge providing the perfect surface area to capture the luscious sauce. Penne and rigatoni also work wonderfully. The key is to choose a pasta shape that’s substantial enough to hold the creamy mixture without becoming soggy.

My Carbonara Evolution

Over the years, I've refined my carbonara technique, learning to perfectly gauge the timing, ensuring the eggs are cooked just enough to create that creamy texture without scrambling them. It's a skill honed through practice and patience. And, of course, the right equipment helps. I've always been a fan of the old-fashioned Salton Hotray; its gentle warmth helps keep the pasta and sauce at the ideal temperature, allowing me to focus on the delicate art of combining ingredients.

Beyond the Recipe

Making carbonara isn't just about following a recipe; it's about understanding the balance of flavors and textures. It’s about using high-quality ingredients and appreciating the simplicity of a true culinary masterpiece. The subtle hint of salt from the guanciale, the rich creaminess from the eggs, the sharpness of the pecorino romano – it all comes together in a harmonious dance on your palate.

So, take your time. Embrace the process. And above all, savor the experience of crafting this classic Roman pasta dish. Remember, it's a journey, not just a meal.

A Culinary Legacy

Carbonara isn’t simply a recipe; it's a legacy, a tradition passed down through generations. It's a culinary story that has traveled across continents and cultures. Every time I make carbonara, I am reminded of that semester in Rome, of the simple, rustic trattorias where I first fell in love with this dish. It's a feeling I hope everyone can share.

Step-by-step

    • Put the guanciale and oil in a large skillet. Sauté over medium heat until the edges of the guanciale pieces are just turning brown, about 2 minutes. Don't let it get too crisp. Set the pan and its contents aside but keep warm.
    • Bring 5 quarts (5 liters) of water to a boil in an 8-quart (8-liter) pot over high heat. When the water boils, add 3 tablespoons kosher salt, then add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente.
    • While the pasta is cooking, break the eggs into a small bowl and add all the cheese and a generous grinding of pepper. Whisk gently until the mixture is smooth.
    • Drain the pasta (reserving and keeping warm a cup of its water) and put it in the skillet with the guanciale over low heat. Toss quickly to mix well.
    • Holding the skillet slightly above but not touching the burner, pour the egg and cheese mixture in a stream into the pasta. Now, if you have the skill, toss the pasta with a deft movement of the wrist to blend all the contents of the pan. If you don't, remove the pan from the heat and mix quickly with two wooden spoons. If you have a warm spot, such as a food warmer or even over a pilot light, rest the pan there while you work.
    • Whatever you do, work fast or the pasta will get cold and the eggs will stay raw and runny. Ideally the heat of the pasta will cook the egg just enough, and the sauce should be creamy. You can mix in a tiny bit of the reserved water to smooth things out, but you probably won't need to.
    • Transfer to individual heated bowls or plates and serve instantaneously.
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