Batsaria (Phyllo-less Spanakopita)

My Family's Batsaria: A Taste of Home

The aroma of baking Batsaria fills my kitchen, a comforting scent that takes me back to my childhood. It’s more than just a recipe; it's a connection to my heritage, a story whispered through generations, passed down from my great-grandparents who emigrated from Ioannina, Greece, a city renowned for its culinary traditions. They brought with them not just their families, but the heart of their home – the unwritten recipes etched in their memories, imbued with love and the essence of their Greek homeland.

Batsaria, a phyllo-less spinach pie, is a simpler cousin to the well-known spanakopita. It's a dish that embodies the spirit of resourceful cooking, making the most of readily available ingredients. The recipe has been passed down through the generations in my family, evolving slightly with each telling, each adaptation reflecting the personalities and experiences of those who prepared it. My Aunt Elizabeth, whose Greek name, Eleftheria, means "Freedom," always emphasized the importance of adding the well-beaten eggs at the very end; a secret to achieving that perfect texture, a whisper of her wisdom passed along with the recipe.

The preparation itself is a journey, a sensory experience. The rhythmic chopping of spinach, the pungent aroma of garlic mingling with the subtle sweetness of onions, the creamy tang of feta cheese – these are the components that build a taste of home, a memory captured in each bite. The batter, simple in its ingredients, yet requiring a touch of intuition to achieve the right consistency; not too thick, not too thin. It's a dance between the wet and the dry, a balancing act that yields a delicate contrast between the creamy spinach filling and the slightly crisp edges of the baked pie.

This Batsaria recipe isn't just about following instructions; it’s about the story behind it, the generations who have enjoyed it, and the memories it evokes. It’s a reflection of the immigrant experience, the adaptation and evolution of a culinary tradition in a new land, and the lasting power of food to unite families across time and distance. The simple act of making and sharing this dish is a way to honor my family's history and create new memories for future generations. It's a reminder that sometimes the most cherished recipes are those passed down, not through written pages, but through the shared experiences and loving hands of those who prepare them.

The baking process is an anticipation, a slow unfolding of aromas that build to a crescendo as the pie browns in the oven. The final product is a testament to the power of simple ingredients and the artistry of home cooking. It’s a dish that’s equally delightful warm from the oven or at room temperature, perfectly suited for a casual lunch or a more formal gathering. Leftovers are just as delicious, their flavors melding and deepening over time, a testament to its enduring appeal.

More than just a recipe, Batsaria is a tapestry woven with threads of family history, culinary tradition, and the enduring love for good food. It's a reminder that the most profound flavors are not always found in exotic ingredients or complicated techniques, but in the heart and soul of those who create them. So gather your ingredients, roll up your sleeves, and embark on a culinary journey that transcends generations, a testament to the simple joys of family, food, and home.

Ingredients:

• 4 eggs
• 1 egg
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 3 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 pinch freshly ground pepper
• 1 1/2 sticks butter (6 ounces)
• 2 bags fresh (not baby) spinach approximately 1 pound each
• 1 small yellow onion, chopped finely
• 1 bunch scallions (or two if the scallions are skinny), white parts and some of the green
• 4 cloves garlic (up to 8 cloves depending on your love of garlic), peeled and chopped finely
• 1 handful fresh parsley, chopped finely
• 1/2 pound feta cheese (Greek or Bulgarian tastes best)
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt (I use Diamond Crystal brand)
• 1/4 cup neutral oil (I use canola)
• 2 cups water (from the cold side of your spigot)

Step-by-step

• Melt butter in a small pot, skimming off foam and discarding it. Set aside.
• Take out the largest bowl you have, or a soup kettle if you don't have a big bowl. Roughly chop the spinach, stems and all. Wash and dry the chopped spinach in a salad spinner. Dump the spinach into the big bowl or pot.
• Add the onion, scallions, garlic, parsley, salt and pepper to the spinach. Mix well. Crumble in the feta and mix again, gently. Set aside while you make the batter.
• Note: I think proper salting is key to the outcome of this dish. If you aren't afraid of raw eggs, take a little taste, but with the saltiness of the feta, I have now found that 1 tablespoon of kosher salt is about right for this amount of spinach. Also, one time I forgot to put in the garlic and the result was flat and unsatisfying; the garlic really is the key flavor combo in this dish.
• Measure the 3 cups of flour, salt, and baking powder into another bowl. Make a well in the center of the flour. Into the well, put the oil, the unbeaten egg, and the water. Mix together until smooth, but don't overmix. The batter should be the consistency of pancake batter.
• Spread some of the melted butter in the bottom of a roasting pan. The size of the pan will determine the thickness of the finished batsaria. Spread some of the batter thinly on top of the butter.
• Beat the 4 eggs until they're light and airy, then add them to the spinach mixture, stirring gently. Add the well-beaten eggs at the last minute is one of the secrets to a good outcome for this dish. Spoon the spinach mixture into the baking pan, spreading it as evenly as you can.
• Now spoon the rest of the batter onto the top of the spinach. There will not be enough to cover the spinach, but you don't want it to. Glop it here and there, leaving areas of spinach exposed. Sprinkle the rest of the butter over the top of the spinach and the batter.
• Bake at 350° F until golden brown, about 50 minutes to an hour. Let the batsaria cool a bit before you cut it into squares or rectangles to serve. It is delicious warm, but like so many Mediterranean foods, it is also good at room temperature. Leftovers are wonderful reheated or cold.