Kentucky Burgoo
There is no point in cooking country ham and burgoo to serve just six, Charles Patteson advises the Derby Day host in Charles Patteson's Kentucky Cooking 1988. Start with the mandatory mint juleps, he continues. Burgoo, which is midway between a hearty soup and a stew, succeeds the juleps in the guests cups as a first course. I hadnt known that. Nor had I known that it's traditional for burgoo to be scooped into silver mint julep cups at the annual Kentucky Colonels Barbecue the day after the Derby. In Kentucky's Best 1998, Linda Allison-Lewis writes that burgoo must simmer for twenty-four hours prior to being served, then confides that burgoo chefs used to listen for the splatter of the mysterious ingredient the ingredient that fused all flavors being added sometime in the dark of night. Legend has it that that ingredient was a black snake that fell out of a tree into the first batch of burgoo. Historians doubt that but most do agree that burgoo was created during the Civil War by Gus Jaubert, a French chef serving Confederate general John Hunt Morgan. At war's end, Jaubert settled in Lexington, Kentucky, began making burgoo on a massive scale, and soon gained fame as the burgoo king. On his death, according to Ronni Lundi, author of Shuck Beans, Stack Cakes, and Honest Fried Chicken 1991, Lexington cook J. T. Looney inherited both Jaubert's pot and his title. While traveling about the Bluegrass State some years ago to research my Grass Roots Cookbook, I ate burgoo every chance I got. I also learned more about this Kentucky classic. Jaubert's original recipe apparently contained blackbirds. Unable to say blackbird stew not only because French was his first language but also because he had a hairlip, Jaubert pronounced it burgoo. Or so I was told. Elsewhere I learned that those early burgoos contained mostly squirrels plus whatever vegetables came to hand. I daresay that there are hundreds of different recipes for Kentucky burgoo today. This downsized version of the burgoo served for years at the Pete Light Springs Restaurant in Cadiz, Kentucky, was given to me by Lois Watkins, whom I profiled in my book. This burgoo is the best in the world, she said as she handed me the scribbled recipe. I won't quarrel with that.
There is no point in cooking country ham and burgoo to serve just six, Charles Patteson advises the Derby Day host in Charles Patteson's Kentucky Cooking 1988. Start with the mandatory mint juleps, he continues. Burgoo, which is midway between a hearty soup and a stew, succeeds the juleps in the guests cups as a first course. I hadnt known that. Nor had I known that it's traditional for burgoo to be scooped into silver mint julep cups at the annual Kentucky Colonels Barbecue the day after the Derby. In Kentucky's Best 1998, Linda Allison-Lewis writes that burgoo must simmer for twenty-four hours prior to being served, then confides that burgoo chefs used to listen for the splatter of the mysterious ingredient the ingredient that fused all flavors being added sometime in the dark of night. Legend has it that that ingredient was a black snake that fell out of a tree into the first batch of burgoo. Historians doubt that but most do agree that burgoo was created during the Civil War by Gus Jaubert, a French chef serving Confederate general John Hunt Morgan. At war's end, Jaubert settled in Lexington, Kentucky, began making burgoo on a massive scale, and soon gained fame as the burgoo king. On his death, according to Ronni Lundi, author of Shuck Beans, Stack Cakes, and Honest Fried Chicken 1991, Lexington cook J. T. Looney inherited both Jaubert's pot and his title. While traveling about the Bluegrass State some years ago to research my Grass Roots Cookbook, I ate burgoo every chance I got. I also learned more about this Kentucky classic. Jaubert's original recipe apparently contained blackbirds. Unable to say blackbird stew not only because French was his first language but also because he had a hairlip, Jaubert pronounced it burgoo. Or so I was told. Elsewhere I learned that those early burgoos contained mostly squirrels plus whatever vegetables came to hand. I daresay that there are hundreds of different recipes for Kentucky burgoo today. This downsized version of the burgoo served for years at the Pete Light Springs Restaurant in Cadiz, Kentucky, was given to me by Lois Watkins, whom I profiled in my book. This burgoo is the best in the world, she said as she handed me the scribbled recipe. I won't quarrel with that.
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper, or to taste
- 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter
- 1 whole chicken breast (2 halves)
- 1 chicken thigh
- 1 chicken liver
- 1 1/2 pounds boneless pork shoulder
- 6 cups (1 1/2 quarts) cold water
- 1/2 pound dried great northern beans, washed, sorted, and soaked overnight in 2 cups cold water
- 2 large yellow onions, finely chopped
- 4 cups (1 quart) canned tomatoes (preferably home- canned), with their liquid
- 4 cups (1 quart) canned whole-kernel corn (preferably home-canned), well drained
- 4 cups (1 quart) canned green peas (preferably home-canned), well drained
- 2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
- Carbohydrate 23 g(8%)
- Cholesterol 83 mg(28%)
- Fat 19 g(29%)
- Fiber 6 g(23%)
- Protein 20 g(40%)
- Saturated Fat 7 g(36%)
- Sodium 704 mg(29%)
- Calories 332
Step-by-step
- Place the chicken breast, thigh, and liver, the pork, and the cold water in a heavy, nonreactive 4-gallon kettle; set over moderately high heat and bring to a boil. Adjust the heat so the water bubbles gently, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove and refrigerate all pieces of chicken. Cover the kettle again and simmer the pork about 1 1/2 hours longer or until very tender.
- Remove the skin and bones from the chicken, cut the meat into 1-inch chunks, then pulse quickly in a food processor until the texture of coarsely ground meat (in the old days, the chicken was fed through a meat grinder). When the pork is tender, cut into 1-inch chunks, then pulse just as you did the chicken. Also pulse the chicken liver.
- Return the chicken, liver, and pork to the kettle, add the beans and their soaking water, the onions, tomatoes and their liquid, the corn, and peas. Cover and simmer for 1 hour.
- Add the salt, pepper, and butter, reduce the heat to its lowest point, and simmer the burgoo uncovered for 3 1/2 to 4 hours, stirring occasionally, or until as thick as chili. Note: If at any time the burgoo threatens to stick to the bottom of the kettle, slide a heat diffuser underneath.
- Taste the burgoo for salt and pepper, adjust as needed, then ladle into heated soup bowls.
A Taste of Kentucky History: My Kentucky Burgoo Adventure
For years, I've been captivated by the stories surrounding Kentucky burgoo, a dish steeped in history and shrouded in intriguing legends. This hearty stew, somewhere between a thick soup and a robust stew, is more than just a recipe; it's a culinary time capsule, a testament to the rich tapestry of Kentucky's past. From the whispers of a mysterious "black snake" ingredient to the tales of Gus Jaubert, the "burgoo king," the lore surrounding this dish adds to its irresistible charm. My own journey with Kentucky burgoo began several years ago as I researched my cookbook, "Grass Roots Cookbook". During my travels across the Bluegrass State, I sampled burgoo at every opportunity, each bowl a flavorful adventure, a conversation with the past.
The evolution of burgoo is as fascinating as the dish itself. Originating, as many believe, during the Civil War, its composition has changed with time and place. Early versions contained ingredients readily available during wartime, while modern variations showcase the culinary bounty of Kentucky's farmland. While some recipes call for blackbirds, others feature squirrels or a host of other meats, vegetables, and beans. The common thread is a long, slow simmering process, allowing the various flavors to meld into a harmonious blend. The heart of burgoo lies not just in the varied ingredients, but in the communal effort of preparing it. It’s a dish that invites sharing, storytelling, and a celebration of Kentucky's unique culinary heritage. The hours spent simmering this incredible dish are not merely a culinary process, but a meditation on time and tradition.
My Experience with Lois Watkins' Recipe
One of the highlights of my culinary research was meeting Lois Watkins. She gifted me with her family's recipe, a downsized version of the famous Pete Light Springs Restaurant's burgoo. When she handed me the simple, handwritten recipe, she declared it the best burgoo in the world. After many successful batches, I wholeheartedly concur. Her recipe is not just about replicating a specific taste, but preserving a legacy, carrying the culinary torch from one generation to the next. It’s a tangible connection to the past, a recipe that speaks of family gatherings, shared meals, and the enduring spirit of Kentucky cooking.
Making burgoo isn't just about following a recipe; it's about experiencing a process, savoring the anticipation, and appreciating the culmination of flavors. The long hours of simmering allow the ingredients to intertwine, creating a depth of flavor and a rich texture that cannot be rushed. It’s a dish that evokes a sense of nostalgia, a warmth that transcends the simple act of cooking. It's a culinary embodiment of Kentucky's character – strong, flavorful, and deeply rooted in tradition. My own attempts at recreating this magical stew have been nothing short of a journey in themselves, each batch a testament to the patience, dedication, and deep sense of history that goes into creating true Kentucky burgoo.
The Allure of Kentucky Burgoo
The appeal of Kentucky burgoo extends beyond its delicious taste. It's the story behind it, the traditions it embodies, and the connections it forges that make it truly special. The lengthy preparation time makes it a dish meant for sharing, for gatherings, and for creating memories. It's a dish for celebrating life, for taking time, and for savoring the richness of Kentucky's history and culture. For me, Kentucky burgoo represents more than just a recipe; it's a cherished piece of Kentucky's culinary heritage.
Conclusion
Whether it's the legendary tales of a black snake adding a mysterious twist, or the heartfelt stories of families gathering around a simmering pot, Kentucky burgoo is more than just a meal; it is an experience. It's a flavor journey through Kentucky's history, a testament to its resilience, its traditions, and its enduring spirit. And it's a taste I'll continue to savor for years to come.
