There are different ways to make a lemon tart. At Bouchon, the French Laundry, and Per Se, we use a sabayon method, in which the eggs are first cooked with the lemon juice and sugar over hot water, then the butter is gradually incorporated an easy method that results in a consistently good lemon custard or curd. The crust is made with sweet and nutty pine nuts, which I think are the perfect balance for the rich, tart custard.
There are different ways to make a lemon tart. At Bouchon, the French Laundry, and Per Se, we use a sabayon method, in which the eggs are first cooked with the lemon juice and sugar over hot water, then the butter is gradually incorporated an easy method that results in a consistently good lemon custard or curd. The crust is made with sweet and nutty pine nuts, which I think are the perfect balance for the rich, tart custard.
A properly executed lemon tart presents a satin-smooth custard with distinct acidity, resting securely within a toasted, nutty crust that shatters cleanly under the fork. Achieving this texture relies entirely on thermal control during the curd-making phase. When eggs, sugar, and juice are whipped over simmering water, the heat must denature the egg proteins gradually to build a stable emulsion without curdling them into scrambled pieces.
Using a double boiler setup with roughly 1.5 inches of boiling water maintains gentle, indirect heat beneath the metal mixing bowl. Continuous whisking incorporates air while moving the bowl prevents localized overheating where the metal contacts the steam. Adding the cold lemon juice in three separate increments drops the temperature incrementally, allowing the starch-free structure to thicken through protein coagulation alone. Whisking in cold butter one piece at a time at the very end introduces dairy fats that solidify upon cooling, sealing the glossy sheen of the filling. Watch for the whisk to leave a distinct visual trail across the bottom of the bowl before removing the heat.