Chernowitzer Challah

In the late nineteenth century, the city of Czernowitz, known as the Vienna of Eastern Europe, was famous throughout Austria-Hungary for its tolerance, civic beauty, culture, and learning. Frequently renationalized over the last millennium, Czernowitz has passed through Romanian, Ottoman, and Austrian control and is now a Ukrainian city called Chernivtsi. At its cultural peak at the turn of the twentieth century, it was populated and governed by Jews from Poland, Russia, Austria, and Romania — it even hosted the first-ever Yiddish-language conference in 1908. Of course, World War II destroyed this idyll, and most of the city's Jews were deported to Auschwitz. This recipe for a classic European challah (pronounced "chern-o-vitzer") comes from the late Lotte Langmann. It is not terribly sweet or eggy, but it is generously enriched with oil. The Austrians traditionally use a four-stranded braid, but this dough holds its shape so beautifully during baking that it is a great choice for showing off any fancy shape. This has become one of my favorite challah recipes.

Chernowitzer Challah
Chernowitzer Challah

In the late nineteenth century, the city of Czernowitz, known as the Vienna of Eastern Europe, was famous throughout Austria-Hungary for its tolerance, civic beauty, culture, and learning. Frequently renationalized over the last millennium, Czernowitz has passed through Romanian, Ottoman, and Austrian control and is now a Ukrainian city called Chernivtsi. At its cultural peak at the turn of the twentieth century, it was populated and governed by Jews from Poland, Russia, Austria, and Romania — it even hosted the first-ever Yiddish-language conference in 1908. Of course, World War II destroyed this idyll, and most of the city's Jews were deported to Auschwitz. This recipe for a classic European challah (pronounced "chern-o-vitzer") comes from the late Lotte Langmann. It is not terribly sweet or eggy, but it is generously enriched with oil. The Austrians traditionally use a four-stranded braid, but this dough holds its shape so beautifully during baking that it is a great choice for showing off any fancy shape. This has become one of my favorite challah recipes.

  • Preparing Time: -
  • Total Time: -
  • Served Person: Makes two 1-pound (450-gram) challahs, one 1 1/2-pound (680-gram)
Jewish Bread Egg Bake Sukkot Rosh Hashanah/Yom Kippur
bread bake egg rosh hashanah/yom kippur sukkot

Step-by-step

  • In a large bowl, whisk together the yeast and 3/4 cup (100 grams/3 ounces) of the flour, then whisk in the warm water until smooth. Let the yeast slurry stand uncovered for 10 to 20 minutes, or until it begins to ferment and puff up slightly.
  • Whisk the 2 eggs, oil, salt, and sugar into the puffed yeast slurry until the eggs are well incorporated and the salt and sugar have dissolved. With your hands or a wooden spoon, stir in the remaining 3 cups (400 grams/14.7 ounces) flour all at once. When the mixture is a shaggy ball, scrape it out onto your work surface and knead it until smooth and soft, no more than 10 minutes. (Soak your mixing bowl in hot water now, to clean it and warm it if you would like to use it for fermenting the dough.) Or, if you like, the dough can be very quickly kneaded in a food processor: Mix the ingredients together in a bowl as directed, cut the rough dough in half, and process one half at a time, then knead the halves together. If the dough is too firm to easily knead, add a tablespoon or two of water to it; if it seems too wet, add a few tablespoons of flour. The dough should feel smooth and firm and knead easily without sticking to the work surface.
  • Place the dough in the warm cleaned bowl and cover it with plastic wrap. (Or, the dough can be refrigerated right after kneading, then removed from the refrigerator to finish fermenting up to 24 hours later.) Let the dough ferment until it has at least doubled in bulk, about 2 hours, depending on the temperature in your kitchen. (If it has been refrigerated, the dough will take an extra 30 to 60 minutes to ferment.)
  • Line one or two large baking sheets, depending on how many breads you are making, with parchment paper or oil them. Divide the dough into two 1-pound (450-gram) portions for loaves, one 1 1/2-pound (680-gram) portion for a large loaf and three smaller pieces for rolls (the easiest way to do this is to divide the dough into quarters and use three of them for the bread and the other for the rolls), or sixteen 2-ounce (60-gram) portions for rolls. To make a New Year's spiral*, roll each portion into a long, even strand, preferably sheeting it out first. For each portion: For a flat spiral, make a very loose spiral of dough on the prepared sheet, starting at the center and winding the dough around, leaving space between the loops, and tuck the end of the strand under. For a high-rising spiral, wind the dough tightly around on the prepared sheet, without leaving any space between the loops, and be sure that the last loop is bound with a bit of tension. This will force the dough to rise in the center as it is proofing and especially during the oven rise. If you would like to make the bird's head*, before making a long strand, pull off and shape a small round from the dough. Set the round on the spiral, using a little water to help it stick. When the dough is fully proofed, pinch out a beak shape and use your finger to push in dimples for eyes, or use raisins or currants for the eyes. Cover the loaves well with plastic wrap. (At this point, the loaves can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours.) Let proof until tripled in size, about 1 1/2 hours (or up to 2 1/2 hours if the loaves were refrigerated). Meanwhile, 30 minutes before baking, arrange the oven racks in the upper and lower third positions if using two baking sheets, or arrange one rack in the upper third position if using one baking sheet, and remove any racks above them. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/gas mark 4). If you like, preheat one or two baking sheets to double with the baking sheet(s) the loaves are resting on. Beat the remaining egg with a pinch of salt for glazing the bread.
  • When the loaves have tripled and do not push back when gently pressed with your finger but remain indented, brush them with the egg glaze. If desired, sprinkle with poppy or sesame seeds. Bake rolls for 15 to 20 minutes, the 1-pound (450-gram) loaves for 25 to 35 minutes, or the 1 1/2-pound (680-gram) loaf for 35 to 45 minutes, until very well browned. After the first 20 minutes of baking, switch the loaves from front to back so that they brown evenly; if the large loaf is browning too quickly, tent it with foil. When the loaves are done, remove them from the oven and let them cool on a rack.
  • Mix the yeast slurry as directed and allow to ferment. While the slurry is fermenting, pick through 2/3 to 1 1/3 cups (100 to 200 grams/3.5 to 7 ounces) dark or golden raisins, or a combination. Check for any spoiled ones, then rinse the rest in a strainer or colander under hot tap water, to plump them up and wash away any excess sugar, which would interfere with the yeast's fermentation. If they are hard, let them drain in the strainer so they can absorb the excess water while you complete the dough; if they are already soft, pat them dry in a paper towel and set them aside. Mix the dough as directed. When it is well kneaded, knead in the raisins just until they are equally distributed. Then proceed as directed.
  • To prepare the saffron and slurry, whisk together the yeast and 3/4 cup (100 grams/3.6 ounces) of the flour in a large bowl as directed. In a small sauté pan, lightly toast 2 generous pinches of saffron filaments over low heat until they curl and turn slightly darker. Slide the saffron into a mortar and pestle and grind it to a powder. Or, if you don't have a mortar and pestle, just use your fingers to crumble as fine a powder as you can manage into a small bowl. Add half the water to the saffron and mix it well with the pestle or your fingers to dissolve all the powder. Pour it into the flour and yeast. Mix the remaining water into the mortar and pestle, swish the pestle or your fingers around, and pour this into the flour mixture. Whisk the mixture together until smooth. Then let the slurry ferment and proceed as directed.

A Taste of History: Baking the Chernowitzer Challah

My grandmother always said that baking was a journey through time, each recipe a story whispered from generation to generation. This Chernowitzer Challah is one such story, a testament to a vibrant and tragically lost culture. The recipe itself, passed down from the late Lotte Langmann, carries the echoes of Czernowitz, a city that once thrived as a melting pot of cultures in Eastern Europe. Imagine bustling markets, the scent of freshly baked bread mingling with the sounds of Yiddish and other languages spoken amongst its diverse residents. This challah, not overly sweet or eggy but rich with oil, is a tangible link to that past. The simple act of kneading the dough, the slow rise of the yeast, feels like a meditation; a connection to those who baked before me, their hands shaping the same dough, their hopes and dreams baked into every golden brown crust.

I often find myself lost in thought as I shape the dough, imagining Lotte herself, her hands deftly creating the intricate spirals, a symbol of life's twists and turns. The recipe is straightforward, but its beauty lies in the attention to detail – the gentle kneading, the careful proofing. These small acts of care transform simple ingredients into something sacred, something that nourishes not just the body but the soul. The rich, slightly earthy taste of the oil permeates every morsel, accompanied by the subtle sweetness of the dough itself, and a lovely golden hue that's always a winner.

It's more than just a recipe; it's a conversation with the past, a tribute to resilience, and a celebration of the enduring power of food to connect us across generations and across continents. Baking this challah is not just about following instructions; it’s about honoring the memories it evokes and appreciating the cultural heritage embedded within its golden folds. Each loaf is a testament to the enduring spirit of a city that, despite immense loss, remains alive in the memories and traditions of those who remember it.

Beyond the Recipe: The simple act of baking this challah has a way of grounding me. In today's fast-paced world, it's a welcome respite, a chance to slow down and connect with something deeper than the everyday rush. It's a practice that allows me to reflect, to appreciate the simple things, and to honor the stories contained within this humble recipe. The aroma of baking bread is a comfort, a reminder of home, of family, of tradition, of connection. And most importantly, the final product? It's simply delicious.

Variations on a Theme: The recipe suggests adding raisins or saffron, and I encourage experimentation! Each addition adds a layer of complexity, a subtle twist to the original. Raisins introduce a delightful sweetness and chewiness, while saffron lends a vibrant color and a unique, earthy aroma. I often find myself alternating between the two, depending on my mood and the occasion.

A Legacy of Flavor: This Chernowitzer Challah isn’t merely a bread; it's a legacy. A legacy of resilience, of cultural memory, and of the simple, enduring joy of sharing freshly baked bread with loved ones. It is a culinary bridge, connecting me to the past while nourishing my present. And that, to me, is the true magic of cooking and the reason why I continue to make it.

The Final Loaf: As I carefully brush the golden-brown loaf with egg wash, I think of Lotte, her hands, her spirit, embedded in this simple act of baking. It is a small gesture, perhaps, but it is profound. It is the embodiment of history, tradition, and the enduring power of food to connect us, heal us, and bring us together, one delicious loaf at a time.

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