Noreen Kinney's Irish Soda Bread
Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are from A Baker's Odyssey by Greg Patent. I am indebted to Irish food expert and cookbook author Noreen Kinney, for sharing her family's Irish soda bread recipe. This bread is meant to be eaten plain with meals, or with cheese or with butter and jam, or used to sop up gravy. Strictly speaking, there is no white Irish soda bread with raisins. Traditional Irish soda bread is brown, with a coarse texture and no fruit. It can also contain seeds and flax and bran, depending on the baker's desires. However, in Ireland there is a famous old bread that was very popular with the poorer people in times past, and considered quite a treat for a special occasion or on Sundays. It is still popular today. Depending on which part of the country one is in, it is known as spotted dick or spotted dog. Basically it is derived from Irish soda bread, but it uses white flour in place of the traditional flours and other ingredients that go into the true Irish soda bread. To enrich the recipe, people added raisins when they became available, and they might add a full egg beaten into the milk, plus some white sugar. So it is the old Irish spotted dick that folks here call Irish Soda Bread. Everyone who makes Irish soda bread adds her or his own personal touches to the bread. To the mixture of whole wheat flour and white flour, Noreen, on any given day, might add wheat bran, oat bran, wheat germ, oats, sunflower seeds, flaxseeds, or poppy seeds. She varies proportions and grains depending on how she wants the bread to turn out. Think of the following proportions as guidelines, and feel free to vary the grain additions according to your tastes, adding from 4 to 5 ounces total by weight for each loaf. The bread's crust is coarse and firm, while the inside is rather dense but moist. A cross indented (not cut) on top of the bread allows the bread to be easily separated into quarters. Oddly, the sunflower seeds change color during baking, flecking the bread with an emerald green. The unexpected appearance of flecks of green in the bread the first time I made it surprised me. I could tell the color came from the sunflower seeds, but why did this happen? Food chemist Shirley Corriher, author of the classic Cookwise, had the answer. "Sunflower seeds are chock-full of good-for-you things," Shirley said, and by that she meant they're loaded with antioxidants. Among these are flavonoids, which turn yellow when they come into contact with an alkali (baking soda in the recipe). Other antioxidants, anthocyanins, react by turning blue. Put blue and yellow together, and you get green. Nifty.
Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are from A Baker's Odyssey by Greg Patent. I am indebted to Irish food expert and cookbook author Noreen Kinney, for sharing her family's Irish soda bread recipe. This bread is meant to be eaten plain with meals, or with cheese or with butter and jam, or used to sop up gravy. Strictly speaking, there is no white Irish soda bread with raisins. Traditional Irish soda bread is brown, with a coarse texture and no fruit. It can also contain seeds and flax and bran, depending on the baker's desires. However, in Ireland there is a famous old bread that was very popular with the poorer people in times past, and considered quite a treat for a special occasion or on Sundays. It is still popular today. Depending on which part of the country one is in, it is known as spotted dick or spotted dog. Basically it is derived from Irish soda bread, but it uses white flour in place of the traditional flours and other ingredients that go into the true Irish soda bread. To enrich the recipe, people added raisins when they became available, and they might add a full egg beaten into the milk, plus some white sugar. So it is the old Irish spotted dick that folks here call Irish Soda Bread. Everyone who makes Irish soda bread adds her or his own personal touches to the bread. To the mixture of whole wheat flour and white flour, Noreen, on any given day, might add wheat bran, oat bran, wheat germ, oats, sunflower seeds, flaxseeds, or poppy seeds. She varies proportions and grains depending on how she wants the bread to turn out. Think of the following proportions as guidelines, and feel free to vary the grain additions according to your tastes, adding from 4 to 5 ounces total by weight for each loaf. The bread's crust is coarse and firm, while the inside is rather dense but moist. A cross indented (not cut) on top of the bread allows the bread to be easily separated into quarters. Oddly, the sunflower seeds change color during baking, flecking the bread with an emerald green. The unexpected appearance of flecks of green in the bread the first time I made it surprised me. I could tell the color came from the sunflower seeds, but why did this happen? Food chemist Shirley Corriher, author of the classic Cookwise, had the answer. "Sunflower seeds are chock-full of good-for-you things," Shirley said, and by that she meant they're loaded with antioxidants. Among these are flavonoids, which turn yellow when they come into contact with an alkali (baking soda in the recipe). Other antioxidants, anthocyanins, react by turning blue. Put blue and yellow together, and you get green. Nifty.
- 1 large egg
- 2 teaspoons baking soda
- 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
- 1/4 cup oat bran
- 1 3/4 teaspoons salt
- 2 tablespoons flaxseed
- 1 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
- 1 cup whole wheat flour or graham flour, plus more for shaping
- 3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into tablespoon-sized pieces
- 1/4 cup wheat bran
- 1/4 cup untoasted wheat germ
- 1/3 cup raw sunflower seeds
- about 1 3/4 cups buttermilk
- Carbohydrate 348 g(116%)
- Cholesterol 295 mg(98%)
- Fat 70 g(107%)
- Fiber 39 g(157%)
- Protein 79 g(158%)
- Saturated Fat 29 g(145%)
- Sodium 3427 mg(143%)
- Calories 2242
Step-by-step
- Adjust an oven rack to the center position and preheat the oven to 425°F. Coat a heavy baking sheet with vegetable cooking spray or line it with a silicone baking pan liner or aluminum foil.
- In a large bowl, stir together the all-purpose flour and whole wheat flour. Add the butter and work it into the dry ingredients with your fingertips until the fat particles are very fine. Stir in the baking soda, salt, sugar, wheat bran, oat bran, wheat germ, flaxseed, and sunflower seeds.
- Beat the egg lightly with a fork in a 2-cup glass measure. Add enough buttermilk to come to the 2-cup line and stir with the fork to combine well. Add the liquid to the dry ingredients and stir with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula until the dough gathers into a thick, wet-looking mass.
- Sprinkle your work surface with whole wheat flour and scrape the dough onto it. Dust the dough with a bit more whole wheat flour. Pat the dough into a circular shape about 7 inches across and 2 inches high and transfer it to the prepared baking sheet. Don't be concerned about evenness—the loaf should look rustic. Make a cross-shaped indentation on top of the loaf going right to the edges. I use a plastic bench scraper and press it into the dough very gently; don't actually cut the dough. During baking the indentation expands, giving the top of the loaf an attractive pattern.
- Bake the bread for about 40 minutes, until it is well browned and sounds hollow when rapped on the bottom. An instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the loaf should register 195° to 200°F. Cool the loaf on a wire cooling rack, and serve warm or at room temperature. Cut into quarters and slice each quarter with a sharp serrated knife. Delicious with butter.
- The loaf keeps well at room temperature, wrapped in plastic wrap, for 2 to 3 days. The entire loaf or quarters of it can also be frozen when completely cool. Wrap in plastic wrap, place in heavy-duty resealable plastic bags, and freeze for up to 2 weeks. Thaw completely before unwrapping. If desired, refresh the bread in a preheated 300°F oven for 10 minutes.
Noreen Kinney's Irish Soda Bread: A Baker's Tale
As a busy working mom, time in the kitchen is a precious commodity. I crave simplicity, deliciousness, and recipes that don’t require a culinary degree to master. That's why I adore Noreen Kinney’s Irish Soda Bread recipe. It’s a testament to the fact that sometimes the most straightforward recipes yield the most rewarding results. The beautiful thing about this bread is its versatility. It's a blank canvas for culinary creativity. The basic recipe, a blend of whole wheat and all-purpose flour, baking soda, buttermilk, and a touch of sweetness, is already a marvel. But Noreen's approach encourages experimentation. Feel free to sprinkle in whatever your pantry offers: wheat bran, oat bran, sunflower seeds, flaxseeds—the possibilities are as endless as your imagination.
This bread isn't just about the taste; it's about the experience. The rhythmic kneading of the dough, the satisfying thud as it hits the baking sheet, the irresistible aroma filling the kitchen—it’s a sensory journey. The rustic, slightly uneven loaf emerging from the oven is a picture of home-baked perfection. And the taste? Oh, the taste! It's slightly sweet, satisfyingly dense, yet moist, with a wonderfully coarse texture. It's the perfect accompaniment to soups, stews, or simply a smear of butter and jam. But more than that, it’s a connection to a rich culinary heritage. This recipe isn't just a collection of ingredients; it's a story of tradition, adaptation, and the simple joy of baking. The emerald green flecks from the sunflower seeds are a pleasant surprise – a hidden gem within this otherwise unassuming loaf.
I've made this bread countless times, sharing it with friends and family, and each time, it's met with the same enthusiastic response. It's a recipe that has earned its place in my culinary repertoire, a go-to for busy weeknights and special occasions alike. It reminds me that even in our fast-paced lives, there's always time for a little bit of baking magic, and the reward is far greater than any store-bought bread could ever offer. The warmth and comfort it brings is immeasurable. It's the kind of bread that evokes memories, creates new ones, and brings people together around a table, sharing stories and laughter. This is more than just a recipe; it’s a tradition. It's a comfort. It’s home.
Beyond the Basics: Variations and Ideas
While the original recipe is superb, the beauty of Noreen Kinney’s Irish Soda Bread lies in its adaptability. Here are some ideas to personalize this recipe and make it your own:
- Savory Additions: Instead of sugar, try adding herbs like rosemary or thyme, or even grated cheese for a savory twist. Imagine serving it with a hearty lentil soup, the slight saltiness perfectly complementing the nutty flavors of the bread.
- Fruit and Nut Combinations: Raisins, cranberries, or chopped walnuts would add a delightful sweetness and texture. Pair this sweeter version with a cup of strong tea or coffee for a truly comforting afternoon treat.
- Spiced Up: A dash of cinnamon or nutmeg would add warmth and spice to the bread, making it perfect for the colder months. Serve it alongside a steaming mug of hot chocolate for the ultimate cozy experience.
- Gluten-Free Adaptation: For those with gluten sensitivities, experiment with gluten-free flour blends. The results might not be identical, but the essence of the recipe – that comforting taste and texture – can still be achieved.
The possibilities are truly endless. Don't be afraid to experiment, to personalize this recipe, and to create your own unique variations. The journey of culinary exploration is as rewarding as the final product. And remember, the most important ingredient is always love, poured into each step of the process.
